Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

currently changing springs for my skyline iv did the rears and the bottom part of the shock slid back in car without a problem

though now im doing the front i cant seem to get the bottom of either shocks back in iv put my whole wight on the rotor stil not close..

is there some trick to this quite stuck atm?

Edited by KrazyTurk

Undo the ARB from the lower arm. Possibly also the caster rod. That will give you some slop in the LCA. If the car is up in the air, you could try a scissor jack under the LCA to change the angle to help convince the damper's lower mount to slide over the pin. A little spray of CRC or silicone lube might also help there.

Both wheels are off the ground? (had one years ago trying to do one side at a time)

Car supported on x-member, not on LCA?

As suggested, long prybar or crowbar to lever the hub down a bit - no need to disconnect anything else.

use the jack handle if its a big hydraulic jack

chassis rail and then on the lca

also have both wheels off the front and both sides swaybar and both sides shocks

basically anything that'll resist the lca's being pushed down

I used a block of wood myself putting stock shocks back in a jzx110 the other day had to use belly power to hold it down so my hands were free

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...