Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've got an 06 350GT Sedan with a strange engine problem.

I had a problem where i would be driving at any maintained speed and the car would start surging violently, i took it in and had the throttle body reset which solved the

surging but now i've got a new problem.

When i accelerate from a stand still regardless of if the car is warm or not as i accelerate the engine feels like its going to stall like the engine is starving, i put my foot down and it backfires and away it goes.

it doesn't do it all the time but its getting annoying and i'm worried its damaging the motor.

I always run 98+ fuel from BP or Shell.

Does anyone know what the problem is or anyone in the western sydney area that can diagnose it?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446162-engine-problems/
Share on other sites

Lack of fuel, too much unmetered air... There could be a hundred reasons. Fault finding like this can be a headache without a Consult3, it might be worth taking it to a mech. Where are you located?

Intank injector cleaner won't unblock an injector, the only way to test them is to see the spray pattern and measure the output flow. If you were local I could do it for you cheap, otherwise if you can rip them out and get an injector specialist, or ship them down to me, they can be easily cleaned and tested.

Have you changed the fuel filter at all? 8 years on the original might be pushing it, but if the fault is intermittent... I doubt that is the cause.

Could be a bad plug or earth problem. You could get the voltage at the injector plug checked.

Like Alex said, a vac leak could be the cause, especially as it seems to be low down more so than up high in the revs. Check the brake booster isn't leaking, or some hose hasn't snapped by pressure testing the intake.

The AFM could be dirty or covered in oil, especially if you have a gay K+N pod hanging off it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446162-engine-problems/#findComment-7352967
Share on other sites

PN-Mad, any recommended mechanics int he area that could diagnose and fix it? any idea on cost?

Scotty, i'm in Western Sydney and there is no gay K+N hanging off anything lol. Engine wise car is stock.

Edited by dalaughingbuddha
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446162-engine-problems/#findComment-7352970
Share on other sites

PN-Mad, any recommended mechanics int he area that could diagnose and fix it? any idea on cost?

Scotty, i'm in Western Sydney and there is no gay K+N hanging off anything lol. Engine wise car is stock.

I would start with anyone with a smoke machine/intake pressure tester, and a obd2 reader.

Hijack

Scotty, what do you recommend using to clean the AFM?

AFM/MAF cleaner.... ;)

There is a product. Brake cleaner is too harsh and can leave a residue.

Also, you can't resolder a vq35 afm. It's a little different to a RB.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446162-engine-problems/#findComment-7353076
Share on other sites

I would start with anyone with a smoke machine/intake pressure tester, and a obd2 reader.

AFM/MAF cleaner.... ;)

There is a product. Brake cleaner is too harsh and can leave a residue.

Also, you can't resolder a vq35 afm. It's a little different to a RB.

^^ This.

CRC do an AFM cleaner. Make sure you let it dry well before plugging it back in, as it has a microprocessor inside.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446162-engine-problems/#findComment-7353252
Share on other sites

AFM/MAF cleaner.... ;)

There is a product. Brake cleaner is too harsh and can leave a residue.

Also, you can't resolder a vq35 afm. It's a little different to a RB.

=P totally knew that...just thought any specific brand

^^ This.

CRC do an AFM cleaner. Make sure you let it dry well before plugging it back in, as it has a microprocessor inside.

CRC? Ok shall have a look...think I should clean mine one of these days considering I have the shitty K&N pods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446162-engine-problems/#findComment-7353285
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...