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Rb Idler Bearing Bolt

dontfeelcold

By dontfeelcold,
in General Maintenance

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Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Who cares, buy a new f'ing bolt and move on!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You don't like that one, buy another one.

People are killing off valuable brain cells trying to work out what the issue is here....

  • Like 1
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

If that bolt doesn't meet your quality standard it is extremely unlikely that another new one will. They make thousands at a time as I'm sure you would know.

If it was me I would use it. If I didn't have it I would get an Unbrako bolt and use that.

  • 8 months later...
GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Read some posts on here lol, you guys...

So we had an engine that was freshly rebuilt last 500km before it decided to lose it's timing and bend 8 intake valves.

post-12712-0-27596700-1430651828_thumb.jpg

The cause was narrowed down to the brand new idler bearing bolt that was fitted to the fresh engine.

It ended up snapping clean off at the threaded portion. This caused the idler bearing to fall away and then the belt lost tension, valves kissed pistons and that was that.

Parts involved:

New genuine oem timing belt

NSK bearings

New idler bolt

stock cam gears

stock cams

Now onto the bolt. I bought this bolt as a new genuine item, and after comparing it to the original bolt there are some differences.

Original bolt is cad plated, and the threads are smooth cut, maybe even a rolled thread.

The new replacement has the same markings and dimensions but is zinc or similar plated and has rough cut threads. The rough cut threads can be the start of stress raisers in the metal and fatigue over time. I'm sure this is what happened to the new bolt.

I'm thinking of getting the bolts tested against originals to see if there is a difference in hardness etc.

And before some of you 'pros' say buy another, I've bought another 6 and they all look shit. Time for ARP spec or something else.

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