Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chrome paint is pretty crap, even the expensive cans lose their lustre very quickly when exposed to ... anything really... you can't sand it back for a smoother finish because you take away the chrome-ness of it and you cant spray clear over the top either because it does the same.

This is my experience.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44645-chroming/#findComment-912409
Share on other sites

If you want stuff Chromed, bring it to me, I'll take it to the people who chrome stuff for our machines.

The Chrome paint is bollocks.

It's cheapish to chrome stuff properly....

What are you chroming??

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44645-chroming/#findComment-912423
Share on other sites

Not that it really matters for interior bits, but remember that chroming does add signifcant weight (and it can also blind you with its bling-bling looks) :)

LW.

that extra 500g of paint will really slow the car down :)

for just interior bits just use a can of $15 paint with some decent primer underneath i say davor

hows adele (the missus) by the way?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44645-chroming/#findComment-914165
Share on other sites

this is what i did with chrome paint on my inside and i was fairly happy but 2GU UP 2 inside looks way better so now im thinking about getting them chromed

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost.../cat/500/page/1

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost.../cat/500/page/1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44645-chroming/#findComment-915034
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...