Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I believe my MAF is going bad and I have a powerFC i haven't installed yet. I understand it will run fine with the base map that is on there as a stock car but if I change to a Z32 MAF and select that in the powerfc will it still be ok to drive or will I have to get a tune?

Reason why I ask is that if I replace the maf it's going to be a Z32 maf, i don't want to have to order a stock R32 maf only to replace it soon after getting the car running properly, and I want to make sure it will run fine with that if I select that in the powerfc so that I can see if that resolves my problems.

Also I know probably someone is going to suggest to borrow a MAF from someone. I have 1 of only 2 skylines in my state that I know of, I lived in the US, so I can't do that.

Thanks for the help ahead of time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446605-powerfc-maf-install-question/
Share on other sites

So it looks like it should be ok, thanks for that link saved to my favorites. Hopefully I have no issues with the shit fuel they have here. (equal to 95 or 96 of how you guys measure it)

Reading that FAQ looks like I might, good resource that.

edit: Any suggestions on how much timing i should pull on such shit gas?

Edited by Kanaric

Meaningless question is meaningless. You find out how much timing you can "pull" when you tune it on the dyno. No answer we can give you otherwise will be in any way accurate.

Well I mean you can give an aproximation or a starting point. It by no means needs to be perfect but would need to be enough to test functionality or drive to a dyno.

If you have a hand controller then leave the timing map as it is on the base tune (as above) monitor knock and use the inj/ign screen to take a few degrees out if you get some knock. Add a little bit of fuel as well. Don't drive like a dickhead, keep it off boost and it should be fine. If you don't know what your doing and don't feel safe driving it like this then don't do it. There's no harm in ringing your tuner and asking him for advice as well

if anything just make sure your base timing is set correctly. the default powerfc map will be fine. Just make sure you run through its first time startup procedure with your z32 selected before you start and presumably after you've installed it. Stock map has lots of fuel and near stock timing...like the others have said...just drive it sensibly to the tuner and you'll be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...