Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a r32 gts-t with a rb 20 det.

I am researching about rb engines and I have read many times about how RB engines (20,25,26) have weakpoints at the oil pump, and crank coller, and the sump.

So is it a good idea to replace the oil pump with a N1 pump?

What exactly is a crank coller and should I replace it in my engine if I change the oil pump?

I have learned from previous questions I asked that having a oil cooler is a good idea for any rb engine.

What other precautions should I take as far as having a good engine and not having any oil problems?

I plan to use the car for daily driving, highway and sometimes at the track(to just go fast).

Seriously dude are you on a mission to create as many threads as possible?

Everyone else else has figured all of this shit out without starting a thread on every individual topic.

Maybe start a new thread (which you love to do ) titled "heaps of rambling questions. Pls spoon feed me " and do it all there.

  • Like 2

On your RB20, do not change anything. For one thing, you're only after about 400HP which is nothing. For another, the new N1 pumps are apparently weak. Many reports of people fitting them over the last few years and having failures that do not occur with the original ones that came in the (N1 and Neo) engines.

For another thing - if you're pulling the RB20 out of the engine bay to dismantle it enough to fit an oil pump and/or collar, then you might as well not put it back in and just do teh engine transplant.

The crank collar is shrink fit onto the crank to provide a better drive for the oil pump. It is not a trivial exercise to put one on.

Seriously dude are you on a mission to create as many threads as possible?

Everyone else else has figured all of this shit out without starting a thread on every individual topic.

Maybe start a new thread (which you love to do ) titled "heaps of rambling questions. Pls spoon feed me " and do it all there.

On your RB20, do not change anything. For one thing, you're only after about 400HP which is nothing. For another, the new N1 pumps are apparently weak. Many reports of people fitting them over the last few years and having failures that do not occur with the original ones that came in the (N1 and Neo) engines.

For another thing - if you're pulling the RB20 out of the engine bay to dismantle it enough to fit an oil pump and/or collar, then you might as well not put it back in and just do teh engine transplant.

The crank collar is shrink fit onto the crank to provide a better drive for the oil pump. It is not a trivial exercise to put one on.

New thread new question. Not going to ask abunch of questions in one thead and not get the answers I am needing. I research and if cant find the answers or dont understand, I ask questions.

I want to take care of my car. When I learn something, I do it and learn more.

Plus the more I learn, the more things I discover that I didnt know about before and I dont understand or know about, the more I research and if cant find answer, I ask questions.

Ok so I will stick with stock oil pump. It may be time for a timing belt change (not sure if the previous owner did it or not, he probably did but dont want to take a chance) the car is about 110,000km. Its a 90 model. If not nessecary, than I wont change the pump.

I will do the oil cooler.

I am going to change the cam cover gaskets( oil very slowly comes out over time, not much, I have notice that this happens on the rb engines after a while)

The car is 24 years old so want to start changing the rubber parts that are worn or leaking.

Edited by yoshiii335

There is an oil control thread in this section of the Forum. It will tell you everything and more you need to know.

Yeah but he has to actually read it.

  • Like 1

Yeah but he has to actually read it.

Not going to waste my time with you.

You don't have to help if you don't won't too.

How do you know what I've read?

In order for me to ask something apparently I have to have read or researched something.

Take your stuff and stay off my thread if not going to help.

Edited by yoshiii335

So you want 400hp at the engine?

Buy a hypergear R34 op6 highflow. That's the easiest turbo upgrade (bolts up to all of the standard stuff).

Get whatever ecu your local tuner recommends.

Sounds like you have the exhaust and intercooler sorted.

Fuel pump (walbro, bosch, gtr, or z32, whatever is easy to source local), GTR injectors, z32 afm.

On a RB20, you DO NOT need cams, or even cam gears, oil pump upgrade, oil cooler (unless your going mental on a track), or most of the other things you've mentioned.

I have almost what i've mentioned here, make 324hp at the wheels (almost 400 at motor), thrash it on the track (its a drift/street car) and have no issues. My RB20 has 180 000 km.

Keep the oil level up and regular changes. Tuner that knows what he's doing, and it will last a while.

Anyway, happy researching.

Asking to be spoon fed is frustrating.

You wouldn't just walk up to to a bunch of guys at a race track and expect them to tell you everything that needs to be done to your car. But for some reason it's ok on a forum. They might however answer a well thought out question.

Doing a a decent amount of research then asking for clarification is normal. People will take you more seriously.

But luckily for you there will always be someone on here who will get the spoon out.

Asking to be spoon fed is frustrating.

You wouldn't just walk up to to a bunch of guys at a race track and expect them to tell you everything that needs to be done to your car. But for some reason it's ok on a forum. They might however answer a well thought out question.

Doing a a decent amount of research then asking for clarification is normal. People will take you more seriously.

But luckily for you there will always be someone on here who will get the spoon out.

You dont get it do you? Say or blow away!

Look

I research plenty, this site, other sites, etc. Many of the post that links to other posts on this site doesnt work anymore.

Some threads are hundreds of pages long. Today I have spent 3 hours before work researching things.

Oil for example. I researched that the RB25 and 26 and even the 20 are weak about oil. They leak easy, the oil pump is not all that great. N1 is what other people said they were using. The sump on the 26 or 25 can cause problems when hitting high horse power, the major cause of RB dying are oil problems mainly from the oil pumps going out, etc. Today is not the first time that I read about that.

Some things get better as new products come out. I have read old posts from 11 years ago where people didnt know much about a certain thing or maybe the products out at the time wasnt the best to do a certain thing, but now there are better ways to do things and new products.

So when I read things and find the same remarks across mutiple sites I ask questions. Sometimes people dont mention what they did to solve a problem.

I have my resources too. I have the rb20/25/26 factory engine service manual for example. Ive used it to help me do things on my first skyline. But having a manual or readling something doesnt always give you insite to the correct way to do something or the complete info that you need. So I ask and if someone can help me than I am grateful.

So before you start telling me what I need to do about searching, why not try helping and suggesting as part of that. I do not need any spectators, time is money.

I am doing things that I havent done before on my car. I want to make sure I do it as correct as possible. If I cannot find a answer after researching, I ask questions.

I have had turners tell me certain things should be changed on the car when upgrading, Oil pump, etc. Mines Japan told me I would need a metal head gasket if going for 350 to 400 hp. Some people have told me I dont need to.

Their are going to be some differences as I have learned from talking to people on this site when tuning my car. The weather and climate, and gas to a point in Australia and Japan are different.

I research lots, especially when I am about to do something.

I have changed many things on my other car and the car I have now such as turbo's (20 to 25 on my first car), fuel pumps, rotors, hubs, whole link assemblys, changing injector seals, calipers and rotors( 32 to 32 gtr), installed a fmic(cutting the whole for the piping, etc), tie rod ends, upper arms, installing gauges, most recently electronic boost controller, etc. I didnt have the same mods on my first car that I have on this car now. My first car was a auto, this one is a manual. My first car didnt have a fmic, this one does, etc. But I research first. I use the manual when I can understand whats going on. When I dont, I ask for help. When doing something for the first time, I make sure to talk to someone who has done what I am going to do first to help me from messing up something.

Edited by yoshiii335

So you want 400hp at the engine?

Buy a hypergear R34 op6 highflow. That's the easiest turbo upgrade (bolts up to all of the standard stuff).

Get whatever ecu your local tuner recommends.

Sounds like you have the exhaust and intercooler sorted.

Fuel pump (walbro, bosch, gtr, or z32, whatever is easy to source local), GTR injectors, z32 afm.

On a RB20, you DO NOT need cams, or even cam gears, oil pump upgrade, oil cooler (unless your going mental on a track), or most of the other things you've mentioned.

I have almost what i've mentioned here, make 324hp at the wheels (almost 400 at motor), thrash it on the track (its a drift/street car) and have no issues. My RB20 has 180 000 km.

Keep the oil level up and regular changes. Tuner that knows what he's doing, and it will last a while.

Anyway, happy researching.

Thank you.

I have researched so many ways of people doing something, including the oil.

I have a GTR fuel pump. Dont know how old it is, just thinking that maybe whatever parts I put on such as injectors, pumps, etc, should be new if it is old. Had a fuel pump go out before, wasnt good. But if the moto is as long as it works its ok when it comes to fuel pumps, I will install it.

So the oil part seems settled unless anyone has other suggestions. So apparently what I researched from the different sites before, the people didnt know what they were talking about.

Oil control thread + reading.

But honestly, if you live in Australia, then I would just slap bolt on mods to the RB20, and drive it till it dies/if it dies. Then they are cheap enough to just buy another one. Maybe then think about doing pumps and stuff. Better yet build an engine on the side properly, then put it in.

Honestly though, the information is out there. If you have done 3 hours searching then maybe you need to go to google and search SAU through there, quite often yields better results. Searching for things like oil pump, oil restrictors, crank collar RB etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...