Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Ive searched about everywhere but nothing seems to be the same issue that I may have.

Doing auto to manual conversion in m s2 r33 gtst bought the conversion kit with absolutely everything down to the ecu came with loom from manual thru to power cable at fuse box this loom has on it Knock sensors, starter motor power, starter solenoid power, 3 cables to connect to manual, power steering solenoid ect im sure I have forgotten a few.

My question is I removed 2 separate sort of looms when removing the auto 1 was connected to the auto only and ran right up and pluged in at what I can only describe is the front chassis rail drivers side near radiator. The second loom had all the knock sensors and starter motor crap on it

The loom I removed has a lot more plugs than the one supplied with the conversion kit does this sound normal to people can anyone enlighten me or do I have to get the wiring diagram and go over it myself im hoping for the lazy way out and one of you guru's can give me some advice.

cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447272-manual-conversion-help/
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

I've just completed the ,annual conversion and have wired up the reverse lights and the neutral sensor correctly. Now I am just wondering the speedo and oil pressure gauge are not currently working and the power steering is slightly heavy and hicas light is on. Assuming I have not wired these up as the plus is different on the manual gearbox loom.

Anyone confirm where the wires are or n which plug on thE car side (car originally an auto).

Thanks

Manual speedo sensor is in approximately the same spot on the lower right hand side of the manual box as it is on the auto box.

When you say "have wired up" does this mean you have run fresh cables for those switches, or does it mean that you have put in the manual driver's side engine bay and gearbox loom like the OP did? Because putting in the whole side loom is far easier than doing it in bits and pieces. Regardless, the original 2 wires for the auto speed sensor will just as happily carry the pulses from the manual's speed sensor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...