Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there

I'm new to the forum. I've read lots of turbo related threads on here, but couldn't find a definitive answer to my question.

I want to build an extremly responsive RB26.

I wanted to use the -9's, because of the good feedback in this thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322850-garrett-gt2860-9s/

Now a company here in Germany told me to use GTX2860R because they should make boost earlier than -9's they said.

After reading the GTX thread in here, lots of people aren't that happy with them, especially with the response after on/off throttle.

It's a street car for slow roads, I want an early spooling turbo an great response when on/off throttle or after gear changing. I don't care about max power. Around 500-550hp at the flywheel is enough for the streets I'm driving. And I don't want to rev the car above 7000rpm everytime.

I will get Poncams and adjustable cam gears as well to adjust it for even more response.

Has anyone driven both turbos an know which one to get? Can a GTX2860R really respond better than a -9?

Thanks in advance and excuse my bad english please.

Edited by GT-R David
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449379-gt2859r-9-vs-gtx2860r-response/
Share on other sites

Almost like stock just with more power :-)

If you want response like that, rebuild the standards with steel wheels.

-9's are a bigger turbo and they feel like it too. -7's are a bit more responsive once again. They both fall off a bit power gain wise past 20psi.

Listen to piggaz about the cams. Many people make the mistake of using too high duration which ruins response. Adjustable gears are a good idea though.

If you only want 500-550 at the flywheel then forget the GTX and grab some -7 or -9s. 7s respond better and are generally cheaper than 9s but they don't have as much to offer in the top end.

Good luck

I've heard that the GTX's will spool slightly (300rpm maybe?) faster than -5's. In the end though from powercurves i've seen that's still not the sort of thing you'd want for a dedicated street car, i'd say go -9's, i'm pretty sure that's the route i'm going to go down in the future aswell.

But that's just what i've heard....

-9s here with full boost at 3800rpm 20-21psi

Built motor blah blah and 272 10.8mm cams

So can be done will be looking for even more response on the new motor with higher comp and e85 so early next year will have results

What's your current power? I'd always figured that the limit on these turbos is ~320awkw's but people seem to be getting 350?

Something like a high comp 2.8 stroker that's dedicated to E85 might make a perfect combo really, if you can have full boost by ~ 3500rpm but get upto those sort of power figures

What's your current power? I'd always figured that the limit on these turbos is ~320awkw's but people seem to be getting 350?

Something like a high comp 2.8 stroker that's dedicated to E85 might make a perfect combo really, if you can have full boost by ~ 3500rpm but get upto those sort of power figures

I've personally seen -7s do 365rwkw in a 34 GTR on E85. 320rwkw is about right on 98 though. -9s a little bit more.

What's your current power? I'd always figured that the limit on these turbos is ~320awkw's but people seem to be getting 350?

Something like a high comp 2.8 stroker that's dedicated to E85 might make a perfect combo really, if you can have full boost by ~ 3500rpm but get upto those sort of power figures

Makes 350kw on 98

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...