Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU

Going to buy a 350gt soon, i have found two that i can't decide between!!

1st- 2003 Manual premium package

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3034901

2nd- 2006 Automatic premium package

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-2992359

Would appreciate some info on these two models, i heard some where to 03 manuals can have some issues, anyone know about this?

hard to decide between a newer auto or older manual.

Thanks!!! :yucky::action-smiley-069:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449830-350gt-2003-manual-or-2006-auto/
Share on other sites

Oooh go the silver one, as apparently it is a "Unique Nissan Skyline", as opposed to all the other millions of silver ones out there that also imho, look as boring as batshit.

Nah seriously, very similar cars, except the 2006 is a series 3. so has a slightly nicer interior, nicer colour (imho), probably nicer HID/projector headlights (not clear from the pic - and while we are speaking of it, who tf puts up a whole 4 photos when trying to sell a car? - including no underbonnet shot which is somewhat concerning), and it has the uber cool series 3 somewhat stove-top style tail-lights (which have a button to open the boot, unlike series 1 and 2 V35s).

Personally I would go the white one.

But as we said in the other thread, do some homework - at a minimum get it odo checked. But you should also get a decent local Nissan-leaning workshop to have a look over it - pay close attention to whether both door locks work with the remote with the internal lock button, whether both windows work with the car on and off, how worn/lipped the rotors are, whether the lower control arm bushes are on their way out, whether the cd player will accept and eject CDs, whether the climate control unit works perfectly (both heat and cool), and many other things a V35 specialist will know to look for. If you are unlucky, you may need to spend up to $5k in short time to repair all of the above items, as it is normally around 100k that many of these faults surface. Then you would say that buying George's/Sikahalv's near brand new V35 is MUCH better value. A poor man pays twice.

But as we said in the other thread, do some homework - at a minimum get it odo checked. But you should also get a decent local Nissan-leaning workshop to have a look over it - pay close attention to whether both door locks work with the remote with the internal lock button, whether both windows work with the car on and off, how worn/lipped the rotors are, whether the lower control arm bushes are on their way out, whether the cd player will accept and eject CDs, whether the climate control unit works perfectly (both heat and cool), and many other things a V35 specialist will know to look for. If you are unlucky, you may need to spend up to $5k in short time to repair all of the above items, as it is normally around 100k that many of these faults surface. Then you would say that buying George's/Sikahalv's near brand new V35 is MUCH better value. A poor man pays twice.

Appreciate the kind words Andrew :cheers:

Edited by Sikahalv

thanks for your reply, yeh i am more keen on the white one, as i am sick of silver, old car was silver.

I asked the owner for some more interior pictures, and he took them at night time... pretty slack, i then asked for some more preferably taken in daylight and he never sent any.

The CD 001 6sp fitted to the series one can have issues with weak synchros. This was fixed with the CD009/update in 2005. If you take it for a test drive, make sure you do some quick gear changes once it is warmed up, any crunching and you still want the car, allow about $3k for a transmission replacement.

I haven't driven one with a bad gearbox, so I can't say 100%. But a healthy gearbox should allow you to do fairly brisk changes (don't be brutal with it), when warmed up properly. It should not cruch at all. From what I have heard, 3rd and 5th are common gears to go first.

Why don't you go and drive an auto and a manual and decide what you like? Sorry to be blunt, but generally people have a preference for one or other, and then start shopping from there.

It's pretty unusual to not be able to decide on two very different cars... 03 is series one, 06 is series 2 or 3... So the interiors are different too...

Test driving both this weekend mate. I obviously would like the better/more reliable one, thats why i asked if there are any known problems with either model. Transmission preference is my second priority.. and i wouldnt call them "very different" if it is only minor physical appearances that they differ in.

Unless there is something else you can tell me about why they are so different?

Cheers.

As I mentioned, the interiors are totally different. Earlier models had brembos, that aren't available on later cars. Later models don't suffer the head unit issues. There are ecu programming changes between the models as to the closed loop running plus all the differences Andrew pointed out with the series 3 cars. However seems to be missing the 19" wheels it should be on.

Either one could be a dog with 120,000kms wound back off the clock. Check with the jap odo services offered.

Good luck.

Wha? You selling already?

^^ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449777-buying-a-350gt-need-advice/?p=7411050

It's more of an expression of interest Lee, as I'm loving my V35 Skyline 350GT - She's one of a kind!

I will only sell her for the right price - to the right person - who will appreciate my V35 as much as I do :yes:

If and when she does sell, I'll upgrade to a V36... until then, I've continued with a steady stream of upgrades for her, such as new tires, clear side indicators, new battery, custom exhaust and soon I'll have the windows tinted too :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...