Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i picked my 33 Vspec up yesterday and am yet to sell the V8 33, so i have two different extremes in the garage, The torque of the V8 is just un beatable the rb26 cant compare to it, but then again its apples and oranges....

The V8 is awesome, different and original, turns heads and also better as an everyday driver with much more usable power, oh yeah did i mention its still for sale...

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah, so it is a little sacrilegious. but having driven a couple rb25s and many a worked V8, the torque delivery seems far more instantanious & brutal in the V8s. dont get me wrong though, i love taking my little rb20 past 7000rpm. and i'm not so sure of this carby business though

i agree that turbos are a great way to increase torque! he should bolt on a couple of rb25 turbos onto it, then give me the keys... buwahahahaha

Well it goes the other way too.

Some guy in perth (f*** knows what car) old V8 type is removing his modified V8 for a 1000hp nissan engine imported from Japan. Its for the 14 mile ofcourse but it shows that the RB engine is well regarded...even in the V8 world.

Torque is overrated ...u can have a million pounds of torque but without rotation it means squat.

Want torque ...get a tractor.

-Dan

you dont like torque dan....? j/k :rant:

cant like a 1000hp motor unless you like torque a bit...

to make 1000hp at, say, 9000rpm that engine would have to be making close to 790Nm@ said 9000rpm, which is a reasonable amount of torque.

the main thing i was thinking with a big ol 8 in an RB car would feel alot faster BUT not necessarily BE alot faster just from the way the torque is delivered.

cant really see the point in this conversion myself but its good to see people flying against the flow sometimes

Can you imagine the Chev owners who are cussing about their pride and joy finding its way into a fancy Datsun!

Could be wrong, but if you want to make god power, then RB are great, if you want to make big power, then it can still be done, if you want to make huge power, then id rather be starting with a little more swept volume then 2600cc.... that said i love the sound of a 6-cylinder on song at 8,000rpm

  • 7 months later...

this will be a nuts car man....

think of how heavy the commodores are, and how quick they still can be...

take that power and knock off the kilo's its a weapon

I drive alot of chevs... i know... i love both

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...