Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Troubleshoot Rb20 Cutting Out And Back In

joe blo

By joe blo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

joe blo Experienced

joe blo

Posted
Posted

Hi mates need some help troubleshooting my beast. Rb20 with gt35. Haltech e11v2. Gt35. Surge tank,044, unknown feed pump.21psi high boost 12psi low

So I had it going good. Could pull through second gear on boost and slide all through second as long as you wanna hold it.

One day it was going good apart from a coil pack clip broke on cylinder 1 and when it comes loose it would misfire.

Only difference between that and the next day was I crimped the connectors down lore so it didn't come loose again and wasn't experiencing the misfire issue when new thing started.

I took it to drags and from first run was having problems. Would pull through first and then in second the whole car would basically cut in and out enough to throw your head forward then back she. It came back on then forward when it cut out again. Turned it to low boost and it cut out once at the start if second gear then pulled the rest of about another hundred metres.

Leads me to believe its fuel issue?

Some details about fuel setup. I ran the tank pretty low on gas when I moved house about a week prior to issue starting. Went to start it about 2 days later and the 044 that was I. It was dead. Turned out to be a chinarie I believe. Didn't have any markings like the genuine 044 I replaced it with.

Car was pulling all through second up the highway after replacement so not sure where problem is. Didn't drive for two more days after replacement and car running good the. Out fill tank of fuel in and went to drags.

Could it possibly be fuel filter?

Thanks mates

  • 2 weeks later...
joe blo Experienced

joe blo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I replaced a 044 with a 044 so would think its the same tho the first one was prob china. Wouldn't the fuel reg accommodate any variances tho?

I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, haven't done anything.

My theory now is that the lift pump is dying and not keeping up enough allowing the 044 feed pump to drain the surge tank. Is that plausible. After some thinking the cutting out reminds me of pumping donuts in the old r33 without a surge tank back in the old days.

Is that theory plausible? The receipt from 2012 for the lift pump was $30 new so it prob wasn't a real good thing to begin with but was doing the job at least initially

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I replaced a 044 with a 044 so would think its the same tho the first one was prob china. Wouldn't the fuel reg accommodate any variances tho?

No. If an old pump is low on pressure at high flow, then replacing it with a pump that doesn't fall off pressure at high flow results in rich mixtures up top. The pressure reg can't make pressure happen where it doesn't exist. Can only drop pressure down to a target.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...