Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello fellow car people! I'm going to collect my first RB26DETT engine on saturday to start my BMW E30M3 NIS///MO project.

The last couple of weeks I have spent hours on hours reading about the engine and what I should take care of first.

To get you up to date I use my car as a sunday car, but I want it to perform well on the track. I don't attend any competitions, I just fancy driving as fast laps as possible. The car it setup with very expencive suspension and brake parts etc. My aim is reliable 400-450hp without doing too much modificaton this winter. What I want to do how ever is to get the oil breating and lubrication sortet first thing first. That include stripping the engine I guess.

I have spent some time in the oil control thread, and have got some of a clue on what is going on. The list that I have come up with on the top of my head I will give you a write up on. I want to install the engine and do all the wiring and hardware work before taking it out again and do the oil job.

So, I have gotten my hands on a 110.000km R32 GTR engine that is late model with pull clutch. This is beeing matet with a R33 GTS-T 5 speed gearbox and converted to push type clutch. This is beeing done by the shop that I'm buying the engine from. Engine is complete swap except AFM's.

So, the list will be:

-N1 oil pump with billett gear

-1mm restrictors (mainly street, but hard when it is on track) Two pcs pr engine?

-2l oil catch tank with two plugs for each rocker cover and two for the sump with filters on top

-Mines or equal rocker cover baffles

-Tomei oilpan baffle kit

-10mm drilling of the oil returns (is that in the block or head? Both?)

-Nitto crank collar

-Fluiddampr

I see it is recommended to expand the sump. If I'm not wrong the sump will be pretty low in the E30, so if I'm going to expand the sump it will need to be to the right or the left. My plan is to use the GTR sump, but remove the excess frontwheel drive stuff that it has on it and plug the holes for the driveshafts.

As far as hp gaining is, I'm building my own 3" exhaust, using stock turbos at first, intercooler will be about the same size as stock Skyline, probably need to make my own suction kit and turbo elbows. What do I need to do with the ECU? Do I need bigger injectors? Adjustable fuelpressure regulator?

So, it anyone have som input to a noob on RB's it would be nice. Or am I totally baked here?

Cheers from Norway!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450443-newbie-r32-gtr-engine-upgrades-etc/
Share on other sites

I have checked out the N1, the R34's and the Kinugawa TD05H-16G and the TD06SL2-20G, don't know the difference on the latter two.

The TOMEI Arms kit does not fit into the budget. MIght get the Tomei headers though.

There is already a Bosch 044 in line fuel pump in the car by the way.

Edited by SSM

if you hve the motor out i'd be doing the turbo's before putting it in....they are known for spitting the ceramic exhaust wheels down the exhaust pipe.

thats my 2 cents.

I can vouch for this.
post-92069-0-51748500-1395011191_thumb.jpg

If you are going to spend all that kesh on the car. Get new turbos. -7's, -5's, -9's

i can pretty much guarantee you will spit a turbo wheel

i unno crank HP

Mine currently make 320AWKW on 98

In getting E85 so who knows what ill make then. 340-350 around there i think. Maybe higher. Can't find much info on them for E85

I made 313rwkw @ 19psi on my -7s, personally I would look at the TD05-16g

3.5" exhaust aswell

If the motor has a pull clutch then chances are it also has the wider oil drive so no need for the Nitto one, but check it while it's apart

The RB26 only has one oil feed for the head, the rear one is blocked usually, again you won't know for sure till head is off, either way fit the 2 x 1mm restrictors even if it means removing the bung from the back one

An RB30 sump will bolt up to the RB26 block

If you don't plan on running more then 15psi and aren't planning on covering the car in tyre smoke the stock turbos will last a while

yeah man i love my -7's.

Drop straight in too :cheers:

i can't see an answer to your ECU question. Depends on what you want to spend. Apexi PFC will do what you want, you can pick them up for around $600

Or do it properly and buy a haltech for future proof. I'm going through the process of removing my PFC for a haltech currently. Haltech is around $2000

i would get it in a running before f**king with it

stock motor is going to be awesome in a e30

once its running perfect and you have ironed out all the bugs then modify

Yes, that is my plan as well.

The stock motor will be slower then the one I had. That was a 236kw/350nm NA engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...