Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ENGINE/EXHAUST

Engine modifications

Block bored 20 thou oversize, decked and o ringed, fitted with forged ACL race pistons and rings

Scat H beam conrods, fitted with ACL race bearings

Crankshaft linished and deflashed oilways

Modified oil pump for greater flow

Heads have received a lot of work with machining, porting and polishing, cc’d, flow tested

1mm oversize Ferrea valves

Competition valve springs

Compression set at 8.5-1.

Inlet manifold has been match ported to the heads and the upper plenum.

JECS 1000cc injectors

Sard fuel pressure regulator and gauge

In tank Sard fuel pump

Custom surge tank and a Bosche 044 pump fitted underneath the car

Custom fuel cooler,

Braided fuel lines

Motorsports connection fuel filter

Battery has been moved to the boot area sealed in a battery box fitted with an isolation switch

Selin twin AFM translator

Twin Apexi power air filters

Series two power transistor unit

Spitfire coilpacks

Engine earthing kit

Modified crankcase ventilation with catch can

2 x GTX 28/63 ball bearing turbos

Recently changed from

UAS custom 600x300x90 front mount intercooler toBDE (Brett Dempsey Engineering) slimline engine mounts to allow for:

Complete 2.5in intake to turbo to intercooler to throttle body piping upgrade

Massive 2.5 inch in and out side mount intercoolers

Blitz dual SBC controller

(Jim Wolf Technology) JWT 400+ wild Cams

BDE (Brett Dempsy Engineering) modified Intake Cam gears

Tomei adjustable exhaust cam gears

A new set of hydraulic lifters fitted with shims has the motor running nice and quiet

Turbosmart, BOV’s

Ross Racing harmonic balancer

Gates blue belts turning the equipment over.

Engine management is by Nistune

56mm Alloy Radiator

72 plate external oil cooler

BEE*R rev limiter

RARE Final Flag polished throttle cable cover (1 actually have 2 of these)

Exhaust

Custom 5 bolt, divorced dump pipes

AMS exhaust manifolds

3” system through hi flow cats, and pair of Varex adjustable Mufflers

DRIVELINE

UAS six button single plate clutch

X-Treme chrome molly lightened flywheel

Chrome molly one piece tailshaft.

Richmond leader diff gears of 4.11 ratio

SUSPENSION

Bilstein PSS9’s coilovers

Powertrix front upper control arms

Powertrix front lower tension rods

Tune Agent rear camber

Tune Agent traction arms

Energy suspension bushings all round

Nissan front strut brace, one of only two in Australia

UAS HICAS lock out

BRAKES

Front,Stop Tech ST-40 calipers big brake kit

332 mm slotted, curved vein rotors

Braided stainless brake lines

Ferodo 2500 pads

Rear, Reliance Edge 297mm slotted rotors

Ferodo pads

Stone shields have been removed and tubular ducting has been fitted for extra cooling

WHEELS and TYRES

Choice of:

19x8.5 and 19x9.5 Lenso gt05 monoblock

18x9 and 18x10 Gram Lights 57F-Pro

Also available is a pair of stock 16” wheels fitted with Mickey Thompson ET street radials for those nights at the drag strip

EXTERIOR

2000 model urethane front bar

2000 rear tail lights

UAS fiberglass vented bonnet

Modified nose panel

UAS rear wing

UAS enclosed rear bar fitted with Perspex diffusers.

Ab-flug Areo mirrors

Custom made Miracle Zed Motors vented air guides for improved cooling to the radiator.

A HID headlights

INTERIOR

Recaro SR3 driver and passenger seats on Z32 recaro rails

Stock gauges have been replaced with el panels giving various shades of blue

Defi triple set, oil, water temp and pressure

Pivot boost gauge

Apexi turbo timer

Twin AEM wideband AFR gauges

Boarder racing gauge hood

Kenwood head unit with four kenwood 5” speakers

Terrano chrome door handles

Leather 300zx logo handbrake boot

Leather 300zx logo shift boot

2000 model gear knob

Leather trimmed doorcards, glovebox, center console etc

535.9RWHP @ 22PSI on BP98 with heaps left. At last tune we didn't even get to start bringing the timing back in when we had spark issues.

Left still to install is a HKS DLI ignition amplifier to fix the spark blowout.

DSC03333Medium_zpsa7c31b3a.jpg

DSC03324Medium_zps19c6f905.jpg

12_zpsd3207d7d.png

DSC03313Medium_zps47cf1423.jpg

20140813_153444_zps9khgd4c7.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451080-mikes-z32/
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, I cant take all the credit for this one, bought it with engine built, just improving on it ;)

After building my old red zed and then getting defected (and subsequently parting it out) I wasnt going to do the whole lot again from scratch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451080-mikes-z32/#findComment-7433398
Share on other sites

Scored a HPC coated plenum with 55mm throttle bodies the other night. Been looking for a throttle body upgrade to complete the breather mods for a while now :)

Also I still have to sort of the ducting to the side mounts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451080-mikes-z32/#findComment-7433582
Share on other sites

Becauseracecar

Because v6, 2 banks, 2 intakes, 2 exhaust manis. Already noticing some variations between the 2. Particularly at idle and light cruise. Not small variations either. Need to swap the sensors over and see if the readings swap also. Hopefully they do and its just a sensor on the way out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451080-mikes-z32/#findComment-7434729
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I removed the plenum on Sat, to swap over for another with larger throttle bodies.

Got it all back together Sat night (before the cruise on sunday) and couldn't get the idle down below 1500rpm. I am assuming that it is the butterflies on the new throttle bodies that are leaking :(

Going to have to swap them out again so I can at least enjoy driving the POS over the holidays.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451080-mikes-z32/#findComment-7444250
Share on other sites

So after boost leak testing everything, in sections, all I found was a pin hole leak in one of my new hardpipes. Other than that it is tip top. Idle issues seem to have been resolved with a simple TPS reset. Voltage was correct, but wasn't getting a throttle closed signal.

Haven't test driven yet, pointing to should be good tho!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451080-mikes-z32/#findComment-7446320
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...