Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump and Front Pipe combinations

Bass Junky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hi ppls

In your experience, would there be a lot of diference between the following (Assume the Cat is a Batmbl big one and the Exhaust is a Fujitsubo Power Getter):

Standard Dump Pipe with Blitz front pipe.

Split Dump Pipe and Blitz Front Pipe.

Batmbl combined Dump and Front.

CESRacing full split Dump and Fron combo with wastegate gases joining rest of exhaust about 4-500 mm down the line.

I'm torn you see.

I have the Standard Dump with Blitz Front, and I'm wondering if its worth the money to upgrade the combination...

All help appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45114-dump-and-front-pipe-combinations/
Share on other sites
Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted

In your situation i would be definately upgrading to a split dump and joining to your Blitz front. Your exhaust can only flow as good as your first restriction and i believe it would be in your stock dump. Even the BATMBL front pipe is bigger than the stock front.

I have the BATMBL dump. but if i could get my hands on a split dump i would love to try it as when the wastegate opens there would have to be some turbelance with the exhaust turbine which doesnt help flow.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bastard.

I want one.

Wanna do a comparison thing for us....

A dyno run before fitting anything, a dyno run with the cat back, and a dyno run with all the bits.

I'll pay for one run as a service to SAU..........

Or maybe a nice workshop is reading this and would help us out by not charging us four runs............

Anyone?

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted

This is interesting, and I am all for a free flowing exhaust... BUT my GTR with the HKS GT2530's and everything that goes with, makes the same as others with the same mods. However I don't have aftermarket dumps and I'm still using the stock cat, the rest of my exhaust is aftermarket. Yep! I'm still using the standard "big time restrictive dumps"... :confused: well so am I.

There's the argument that:

- split dumps are better because they split the gases

- then you have HKS split which are only 150mm long "similiar to CES splits", but this is apparantly not effecient, and some will say you need the TRUST combined front pipe & split dump where the split meets around 400mm down rather than 150mm like the HKS.

- then you have companies like mines who have a dump with no split just a big muther opening..

- then you my tuners tell me save your dosh because the gain on dumps is very minimal, based on dyno testing.

still :confused: ..hmm so am I ! Didn't mean to throw this at ya. :)

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I'm up in the air about it too.

Looking at the R34 cast dump, it can only be restrictive!

But Hypertech told me that there is very little difference also. Maybe 4 or 5 at the top end.

But surely, response would be better?

I'd really like to see the Boost Curve with diffent combos on......

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

I'd say on the stock boost you would find little gain with the stock dump, but the response would likely change. At higher boost there is a definite change with the BATMBL style in the midrange and the exhaust note..

I'd sell the expensive engine pipe and probably pay less for the combined dump pipe and come out ahead. They are easy as hell to fit but make sure you use anti-sieze paste on the threads.

In reality, when you look at the turbine outlet and the wastegate outlet diameters I see little need to go split on the standard turbo. There is a definite flow impedance designed into the stock dumps however.

pinoi_boi_r33 Community Regular

pinoi_boi_r33

Posted
Posted

Later down the road I will probably be putting a to4 on and at the moment just have a cat back on a 33gtst. I am in the same sorta boat as bass junky Most cost effective is dump and front in 1 (non split) ie. batmbl or flyn and is CES wank factor for the price (How much did you get urs for Daz) ? I can get a 3inch front pipe cheap but split dumps r still expensive. What do u guys reckon i should go with? Maybe getting a local exhaust shop to have a look and give me a quote on making a split one up. Dandenong exhausts made a nice one for a friends rex.

sorry to hijack thread :(

craz0 Proficient

craz0

Posted
Posted
Hi ppls

In your experience, would there be a lot of diference between the following (Assume the Cat is a Batmbl big one and the Exhaust is a Fujitsubo Power Getter):

Standard Dump Pipe with Blitz front pipe.

Split Dump Pipe and Blitz Front Pipe.

Batmbl combined Dump and Front.

CESRacing full split Dump and Fron combo with wastegate gases joining rest of exhaust about 4-500 mm down the line.

I'm torn you see.

I have the Standard Dump with Blitz Front, and I'm wondering if its worth the money to upgrade the combination...

All help appreciated.

What about a HKS dump pipe?

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Crazo

That's what I'm talking about.

they sell for over $500 new.

At that price, would be better to sell my front and buy the CES racing one.

Decisions...

Enrico... Ultimate Performance Imports have an R33 HKS Split Dump pipe on their page for $350.

Wont fit an R34, but will fit yours.......

Steg33 Community Regular

Steg33

Posted
Posted

Sorry of rthe hijack but I've got a custom stainless split dump pipe for sale if anyone's interested. Was only used for a few months before an engine rebuilt and other mods made me change. Asking $250 but open to offers.

Pm me for pics and details.

Steg33 Community Regular

Steg33

Posted
Posted

I'm not fully sure of where it was made because i bought it off INASNT when i bought his turbo at the end of last year. The thread for the dump is still here but the dump is not as shiney now due to use, still the same part tho in good condition tho.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=dump+pipe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TheBushKangaroo
      Hello fellow enthusiasts

      By TheBushKangaroo · Posted

      Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • hypergear
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By hypergear · Posted

      Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...