Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I had my V35 coupe parked on the side of the road today, and when I started it up to drive off, I was met by an extremely loud screeching noise when I turned the wheel to the right and started to drive. It seems to be coming from the front, drivers side wheel arch.

After a 4-5 seconds, the squeal stopped. I drove forward for about 20m, then turned right onto another street when it squealed again- this time it was nowhere near as loud or long. I pulled back over and let the car idle for a minute, before taking off. It was only a 10 minute drive home, and it did not make the noise again.

Does anyone know what this could be? A few google searches indicate the power steering may be the culprit.

The power steering fluid is full to where it needs to be. The alignment seems to be fine. For the last few weeks, there has been a light clunk noise coming from the front right suspension (the car has tein coilovers), which I was going to get looked at after christmas. There don't seem to be any leaks from the car either. Usually when I reverse out of the drive, there is a slight buzz noise (presumably due to the EDFC) once I have started driving.

I purchased the car from a specialist importer, and am the first owner of the car in Australia. The car has just ticked over 80k kms (I have dereg papers and import papers etc to confirm this).

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know so I can contact the dealer with at least some knowledge of what the problem could be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/
Share on other sites

stone stuck between the brake rotor and caliper or caliper bracket..

Interesting...

I took it for a drive an hour or so ago and it didn't do it.

Hopefully it was just gremlins... I might get my phone ready when I go to work tomorrow and see if it does it again...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7434721
Share on other sites

I would say old/loose ancillary belts. They aren't expensive to replace, $70 for both from memory, and about 30 mins of your time.

+1. Commonly heard on old bangers but can happen on newer vehicles if the belt has been damaged or is getting dirty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7434816
Share on other sites

they should be ok, but these size belts are an 'off the shelf' item, you should be able to buy at just about any auto parts store.

Slipping belts often squeal when starting from cold and get loud when you rev the engine, and often go away after the first minute or so of driving. also can get louder when you put them under load, eg. power steering pump load (turning when not moving or moving slow) or AC compressor. Shouldn't really make much difference if you are turning right or left. and would also come from the front of the car, not the right side wheel arch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7435943
Share on other sites

well sort of.. not really in the wheel arch... it is close enough to the front centre of the engine bay that it would sound like it is coming from under the bonnet when you are in the drivers seat.

when I had a faulty fuel damper, it sounded like it was coming from the engine bay, even thought it was the rear right side of the engine.

The sound of a squealing belt would also be quite a bit different to a rock in the calliper. a belt is a screech.. but a rock is more of a metallic scraping sound which is usually a bit modulated with wheel rotation speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451230-squealing-noise/#findComment-7436027
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...