Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cams will depends on turbos you choose, small responsive low mounts stay stock, or if you must Tomei type R cams

injectors, I would go ID1000, should be plenty for your goals even if you decide to go e85? much better then the old school denso types (think sard, hks, etc)

may aswell port the factory manifolds while they out

if your gonna do head work may aswell do cams and cam gears at the same time, and valve springs ? new shims.....something so simple as a freshen up can end up becoming a full all out rebuild lol

Thanks guys, I keep hearing about the ID1000cc Injectors, so looks like I will probably have to be added to the list of things for once the block is back in.

I think a lot will depend on what we find when we open it all up. The std cams vs small upgrade cams is still something I'm not 100% on but I should have a better picture once they are out.

.....something so simple as a freshen up can end up becoming a full all out rebuild lol

I'm sure a lot of people here know just how quickly it can all change. As I said above until like a week or two ago the engine wasn't even coming out haha and now I'm talking about rebuilding the head, new internals etc. lol :blink:

Engine out - rebuild.

I focused on fixing any oil issues.

1) Tomei pump (heard Nitto are good to)

2) Extended sump

3) Baffles

4) Restrictors

I have -5's. They have more lag than the stock turbos but not worried they are heaps of fun with 370kw atw.

Engine out - rebuild.

I focused on fixing any oil issues.

1) Tomei pump (heard Nitto are good to)

2) Extended sump

3) Baffles

4) Restrictors

I have -5's. They have more lag than the stock turbos but not worried they are heaps of fun with 370kw atw.

Oiling issues aren't about oil supply. They are about blowby control and oil return.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, Happy New Year to all!!

Sorry to revive an old thread but the engine is coming out in the next week or two and I am starting to finalise my order list to make sure parts start arriving in due time. On the whole Oil issue I am still confused slightly by what is required in upgrade my 90 model GTR factory oil pump and associated parts.

As mentioned above I was looking at getting (depending on Crank condition when removed) just a JUN Collar, N1 Oil Pump (p/no - 15010-24U01), Tomei Baffles and 1.5mm Oil Restrictor. I think this setup would work although I am 100% not sure if the JUN Collar will work with N1 Pump. Secondly I have looked into upgrading the std pump gears (Reimax) for a similar price but can't find out if I still require the Collar etc. and if it will actually give it the larger contact surface or if it is just stronger so less chance of cracking?

Can anyone help with what would EXACTLY be required to fit the upgrade gears to my pump and will that be as "strong" as the N1 Setup listed above? I am also looking at getting a New std Harmonic Balancer to be balanced with the Crank etc. but an mot sure if the std balancer will work with the upgrade collar and pump??

Thanks guys, any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

ENGINE IS OUT and everything has been stripped. FINALLY!!

Hey all, just thought I would give a bit of an update on where I am at with everything. During the last week we have finally pulled the engine and have stripped it completely down to just block with in a few days and so far there is no big surprises or big news. The only signs of wear etc. are on the Main Bearings (2 of them worn on one side more than the other so other then a line bore and standard refreshing required only) so it doesn't look like there is a lot to be too concerned about.

Decision has been made, with the help of the engine rebuilders, that we are going to do pretty much a full rebuild with hopefully reliability and useable street power the main focuses. So far the list for the block and internals are as follows -

- One-Size over Forged JE or CP Pistons - 86.5mm

- New Big End and Main Bearings (ACL or King)

- Check Crank for straightness and just Linish if OK

- Factory Rods with New ARP Rod Bolt

- New Harmonic Balancer

- Line Bore

- Cylinder Hone etc.

- Skim Head and Block

- New 1.2mm Nismo Head Gasket

- ARP Head Stud Kit

- Full Head Refresh - Re-Seat Valves, Seals etc.

- N1 Oil Pump with Crank Collar fix

- Complete Bottom End Balance

- All seals and Gaskets as well as New Belts, Factory Hoses etc.

The things I still haven't decided and would love some feedback on is -

- Porting of the Head while it is being overhauled. I have heard there isn't huge gains to be had and that it would cost around $700-$800 to do. I love the idea of having it done but unsure if worth it.

- Cams - I will definitely be doing the cams with adjustable gears with the head so they can shim them etc. but undecided on Type A, B or R?? I have been told that it would be best to also do the matching springs for these cams.

- Will mostly likely be running Garrett -9's or -7's with the hope of a fairly responsive street car with around 350kW - 380kW at the rears. Would -9's and -7's be capable with supporting mods of course of hitting the 350-380kW mark safely?

Can anyone provide any feedback on the above? I have my mind pretty set now but want to make sure this isn't something that will need to be done again anytime soon. but I am still unsure of a couple of little things. Engine Management, Fuel Injectors etc. will all be finalised once the block is back together at this stage as my brain is overloaded and I want to focus on one thing at a time.

Thanks guys, I will try and get some pics up when I figure out how to do it :unsure:

  • 2 years later...

Hey everyone,

I know it has been a while now and not too sure how many people were actually following this thread in the first place but thought I would provide an update about this build and let you all know where we have ended up after all the research and feedback from you all.

Since the last post things have come along way and have changed and adjusted the whole way. Good news is we are now not too far from having everything here and ready to go back together. As a few people stated previously in this thread, I have made sure as much as possible that it will be done right the first time. So after a lot of time and obviously money this is where we currently stand.

ENGINE - CP Pistons (9:1), OEM Rods, OEM Crank, ACL Bearings (Main and Big End), APR Bolts and Studs, OEM Harmonic Balancer, N1 Oil Pump with Reimax Gears and Crank Collar, All Balanced, TOMEI Sump Baffles, Oil Gallery Restrictor, Checked and Cleared Oil Returns.

HEAD - A Bunch of Porting, Polishing and matching, Type B Cams, Type A Springs, Full Refresh of Valves/Guides etc., E85 Cam Baffles and Adj. Cam Gears.

MANIFOLDS, ACCESSORIES ETC - OEM Manifolds, Port Matched and Extrude Honed, Enlarged and polished ITB's (resealed and shaft re profiled), Nismo Gasket Kit (1.2mm Head Gasket), R34 Fuel Rail, Splitfire Coil Packs, Oil Cooler Kit, Haltech Plat Pro with 3 Bar MAP, Loom Tidy Up and Check, Ceramic Coat Exh. Manifolds, Exhaust Housing, Dumps and Front Pipe, All new OEM Water, Power Steering and A/C Hoses and a Hard Pipe Kit for Rubber Intake Hoses only.

TURBOS - haven't been purchased yet but most likely a customised twin set up in the range of GTX or -5

UNDECIDED - Type and size of injectors (probably 1000cc Denso) and suspension mostly.

Pretty much everything is ready to go except a little bit of ceramic coating and a few final bits and pieces. Hopefully it will all start to speed up a bit from here. Thanks again for all the help previously for anyone who contributed. Feel free to ask any questions if you have any and hopefully it won't be another 2 years for the next update haha

20161129_023651[1].jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...