Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just hoping for some light on the subject.

Had a worn standardish clutch that was replaced with a single plate heavy duty thing and I have noticed:

1. A fair bit of backlash in the drive train.

2. Hard to put it into 1st when stopped as i have to let the car roll a bit to get it in gently

3. A change from 1st to second is a bit hard

4. Drive train backlash when going slow in a car park where I have to ride the clutch a bit.

5. Noticed backlash when on and off throttle esp in 3, 4, 5th gears.

Never had any issues prior to the clutch being installed and I was told the fly wheel (standard) was in good nick so it wasn't changed.

Gearbox is perfect.

No diff or drive train noises or whines.

So asking for advice to remedy the situation.

Thanks

If the take up point is close to the floor, adjust it higher and see if that helps with 2 and 3.

What do you mean by backlash?

backlash as in a hammering of the drivetrain. Back and forth hammering when driving in a carpark. As if the driveline has slack in it. Also notice it when cruising if i come off throttle suddenly.

What type of clutch? Could be relevant to my interests if it turns out to be the same brand as I have.

not sure mate it was just a heavy duty single plate that was re-done by a local bloke that owed a mate a favour..... ha ha that may be the problem maybe

A fly wheel would not cause any of those issues.

Possibly a few loose bolts or the gearbox mount not bolted back correctly.

Have a look at those first then check to see if the bolts on the tail shaft are tight too

Also are you using a sprung centre disc or solid?

As of the start of this thread, yes, that was pretty much what I started to wonder. Hence why I asked what sort of clutch the OP had to see if it was same as mine and if perhaps my backlash problem might originate there.

Interesting, some of the 'slack' in my driveline was remedied by changing the diff bushes but it's still often noticeable on gear change. I've got an NPC 10" HD organic (p/n NPC7333HD-10") with an R34 GTT gearbox. Which clutch are you running?

Extreme heavy duty of some sort. Initial one was on my RB20 and it did something unpleasant tto itself after some years of use (without complaints too, I might add). Extreme did a partial warranty on it and the new one was a bit different. Went onto the RB20 and then got carried over onto the Neo. The backlash in my driveline goes back to the RB20 days, and the clutch is the only common component between the engine and the rear hubs.

Extreme heavy duty of some sort. Initial one was on my RB20 and it did something unpleasant tto itself after some years of use (without complaints too, I might add). Extreme did a partial warranty on it and the new one was a bit different. Went onto the RB20 and then got carried over onto the Neo. The backlash in my driveline goes back to the RB20 days, and the clutch is the only common component between the engine and the rear hubs.

Ok, different clutch then.

Also AFAIK the NPC 7333HD is a rebranded Exedy NSK-7333HD, same product. Both are pull type for the R34 box.

The backlash I think you are talking about is probably the clamp rating on the clutch. Do you know if it is a sprung button?

Um. Explain?

Ok, different clutch then.

Also AFAIK the NPC 7333HD is a rebranded Exedy NSK-7333HD, same product. Both are pull type for the R34 box.

Perhaps not. Extreme are Exedy too aren't they?

I'm not confident we all have the same understanding of backlash, so from Wikipedia "In mechanical engineering, backlash, sometimes called lash or play, is clearance or lost motion in a mechanism caused by gaps between the parts". In the diagram below as gears wear the backlash increases. I cant see how changing a clutch can effect backlash.

220px-Backlash.svg.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...