Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had Type Bs in my 34 when I bought it and dialed them in best I could and still wasn't happy with what they did so swapped them out for Type Rs (only cause I couldn't find stock R34 cams for sale at the time) and made same peak power, +/-2-3kws, but came on +/-800rpm sooner

I know why this is but CBF writing it from my phone :(

  • Like 1

I got type b for my 25det neo but haven't installed them yet, somebody told me to go the smaller cams for this reason but majority said the type b's were better, and tomei claim the type b make more peak power and better response than type a

Tomei will tell you what ever it takes to sell you a cam, other people it's the placebo effect of it makes 10kw more up and at idle it goes "wank wank wank" but what most people forget to tell you is it makes 20kw less thru the bottom

But with playing with lift and duration in many set ups, we've (me, Mic, piggaz and others) proved that on low mount turbos the bigger duration cams make everything worse

An easy way to look at it is to increase response people increase compression and larger duration cams reduce compression

As a side note I thought so much of my type b pon cams I gave them away

I am talkin on a 25 neo, where there is no 'type r' available. Stock cam is intake 236 8.4mm exhaust 232 6.9 mm and the type b is 260 9.15 intake and exhaust.

But do tomei measure from base lobe or from .050" lift?

Although I am going top mount forced performance 3076 it is still not a large turbo, perhaps I should go with type a with 252 degree and still 9.15mm lift, it is still a considerable amount larger than factory

The type b on the neo engines Is good.

Type b on rb26 not so good.

260 is the advertised duration. You can Google tomei cam cards and see the duratiom at 50 (around 222 from my crap memory)

Edited by Ben C34

Cams are cams and work on crank rotation angle, makes no mind what engine they are on

Go the 252s

The Tomei cam duration is takin from lobe contact on to lobe contact off given the correct clearences from bucket

Sort of. Perhaps it's the vct on the neo that makes up for the loss on the rb26.

Vct wins. Neo has vct. Neo wins!

Neo is a sales gimmick and not worth shit on a turbo, add lift to it and then maybe but I'm yet to see a neo match my 32 for power AND response on the same boost and my 32 still runs bush bearing stockers :/

I can not post pics for some reason, will see if I can get someone to post it for me

Tomei will tell you what ever it takes to sell you a cam, other people it's the placebo effect of it makes 10kw more up and at idle it goes "wank wank wank" but what most people forget to tell you is it makes 20kw less thru the bottom

So much right in that statement.

Just because someone makes something and their marketing says you need it - does not mean you buy it.

Although I am going top mount forced performance 3076 it is still not a large turbo, perhaps I should go with type a with 252 degree and still 9.15mm lift, it is still a considerable amount larger than factory

For that size of turbo, which really isn't big, stock cams would still be a pretty damn good choice if you needed to spend money elsewhere like:

Brakes / Suspension / Diff / Clutch - starting point of total spend is around 8k.

And if you haven't spent money in those 4 areas - you should be before touching the cams because you'll actually get decent benefits of being able to stop better, actually drive around a corner with the added power and/or actually put said power to the ground. All are critically important, far more so than a few kw here/there on a graph.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
    • Hey all. I’m looking on replacing my speed sensor on my R33 GTR. Will the center differential need to be drained, and if so, the center diff uses ATF fluid D? I found information on the transmission, front diff and rear diff. Can’t find a for sure answer for the center diff. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...