Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Michael, looks like I owe you a round. I rotated the sensors and ran around the block where the error used to show in first 100 meters.

Now I need to change the connector on the old sensors and the reinstall.

Thanks!

  • Like 1

So checked the resistance on the sensors. R33 were 1.3k ohm and the R32 were 2.1k ohm. So I opted to make some 90 degree adapter plates instead of swapping the connector to put the R32 ones in.

Fingers crossed that this finally sorted it out.

Also the bolt thread are in the A-LSD half shafts where the non are in the CV

Most people would just put the diff in with the sensors that came with it so it probably hasn't been an issue yet :/

Yeah my A-LSD stopped working once I put the LSD up front, which I found out at SMSP-S last year :(

Yeah that'd be why - most just swap the entire diff.

lol - Is there ANYONE with a v-spec who hasn't gone through that agonising experience? :D

  • Like 1

Well I can confirm that the sensors have sorted out my dramas. The car ran all day Saturday at the Nulon nationals without a single Attesa error. All the rear 1.5 way goodness really helped on the wet Skidpan.

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
On 1/13/2015 at 11:37 AM, Pezhead said:

Yup changed my half shafts cause the alsd diff is so much wider.

What shafts did you end up using? Did you get non v-spec R33 ones. I'm just about to go through this conversion now. I have an R32 GTR diff that I am installing

  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/4/2018 at 10:06 PM, Deano45 said:

What shafts did you end up using? Did you get non v-spec R33 ones. I'm just about to go through this conversion now. I have an R32 GTR diff that I am installing

Yup, ended up picking up some non V-Spec R33 GTR shafts and chucking the V-Spec ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New or used transmission? Alignment will be the same with engine running or not. If new, i'm presuming it's a clutch release bearing size issue. If used, are you certain it's a CD009/A and not an older CD008 or less? They had known synchro issues. In my opinion, these transmissions should always be purchased new, they're dirt cheap and you avoid dealing with old revisions. 
    • I like your thinking! Looking forward to see how it turns out.
    • You've got yourself a good old game of have fun. That shit is annoying as hell to remove. Thankfully for you, yours is on metal, most of the stuff I take it off is plastic, so typically hear guns are out. I normally end up continually dragging my thumb with pressure over it to get it to peel up. Eucalyptus oil then works well for getting residue and last remnants off.   Edit: plastic scraper might be worth while too. One that'll dig into the foam tape, but not scratch the paint.
    • So I ride and race motorcycles for fun and have always used a van to transport my track weapons. Figured towing a racebike with a skyline would be different and if done right could - "look fully sik" or quite cool for us grown ups lol. Pic of yours truly on two wheels I also have a trailer already kitted out to transport my bikes ...and I have a spare set of rims that match the car that I was going to rebarrel to get deeper dish at some stage but they have just been gathering dust. Sooooooo it is only logical.... Stay tuned !!    
    • If by "flap disc" you meant "chocolate wheel".... then they are OK for getting off stubborn remnants. But not for stuff with bulk depth. If by "flap disc" you meant "abrasive paint f**ker"....
×
×
  • Create New...