Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an idea. set anti-lag launch end RPM at 8000 and get a mate to film from outside the car. You know, for science

have already done this at 7000 haha I feel that the neighbours were less than impressed.

you want peak cylinder pressure at around 12 degrees atdc,any more or any less and you lose torque, you therefor need to ignite the mix so it burns at a rate that gives peak pressure at that angle, as revs go up, the piston moves faster so mix needs to be lit earlyer or peak pressure will occur after the desired angle, and waste power, yet you dont want to advance to much as the other side puts stupid amounts of strain on the motor and wastes energy to.

however as more load is placed on the motor, more heat is in the chamber so mix burns faster, so timing needs to decrease to keep peak pressure at the right angle, or else your firing to early and can cause damage from to much strain.

this is on a motor that isnt limited by knock,

most rb25 with big turbos and huge boost will be knock limited at some point, so wont actually be able to be at 12 degrees atdc with peak cylinder pressure as the burn is to unstable and starts pinging so in these cases peak pressure ends up being later atdc to keep things working without damage

how do you measure this?

knock ears and a dyno,

increase timing in a cell while holding steady state on the dyno and watch the torque fiqure, it will plateau and then drop, at the start of this plateau is where you want your timing to be, any more or any less and your wasting power and arnt helping the motor at all,

if when advancing the timing it starts to ping before it plateaus, thats how you know the engine is knock limited, and timing needs to be put back to stop the pinging

slight changes in engine setups, and even just slight tollerance differences between motors, is what could make one map work perfect for one persons motor, and make another persons motor need a tow truck, so be careful when playing with ignition timing without the correct tools

interesting, thanks for the detailed response. Eventually I will have the eflex sensor tuned to run 98/e85 mix.

Everyone's quoting timing numbers but not saying what rpm its at.

Top right corner of my e85 timing map is 26 degrees (7500rpm) from Toshi and that was conservative. I don't think he liked putting 20 psi through the stock rb25

hmmmmm.. as a tuner tuning on both road and dyno its not advisable to take timing maps from other cars... different turbo ,mods, compensation maps bla bla make a huge difference..

i made 415HP @20 psi with 22* on a 6262 on 91 oct

i also made 499 hp @21 psi with 27* on a borgwarner 8375 using the same 91oct with waiter injection.which would bring it up to 97-103 oct....

but whose to say if my compensation map is pulling 5* in the back ground . or if my finial timing is 27* but my intake temp is super low...

quick answer though...with everything working cool and proper fuel you should be able to go 18-20* at 20psi ...

it your street tuning you would feel the difference...go up 20* make a pull and make a pull at 17* if both feels like there pulling the same leave it at 17 once knock is not present.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if you can disassemble the thing and put it backwards for different ramp rates. They're both "2 ways" or both "1.5 ways" because well, 2 ways and 1.5 ways are the same 'thing' I do not know for sure, but I believe the 38420-RSS15-B5 is the 1 way, and 38420-RSS20-B5 is the two way. In other words, I predict Nissan considers this: to be a 1.5 way. No idea what actually happens when it arrives/you disassemble it. It would be an excellent question to ask Nismo directly! I somehow doubt you will get an answer though, I feel you would be the first person to document what you encounter when you open the box and the internet would be grateful.
    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...