Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello so I've brought a R33 Gtst. My first ever turbo car. Im looking to get it around 350 HP at the wheels. Now I've been doing a bit of research and I think I've found a good list of parts I need to make this possible. Just want to see what you guys think before I blow all my money. (Car at the moment is bog stock. Car is also automatic. I kind of want it for drags and circuit. I know manual is better but my daily is manual I wanted something different)

Parts:

-Intercooler

-Turbo smart boost tee & Boost guage

-Nismo 555cc injectors

-Turbo gt3037 (do I need better?)

-Apexi power intake

-Walbro 255 L/PH fuel pump

-Low mount & dump pipe

-R33 S2 AFM (Or Z32?)

-Lightweight pully kit

-And a tune (what's best tune to get).

This car is a track car so not ever going to be road legal so dont mind if I have to straight pipe or what ever.

Would that be enough to make 350 HP at the wheels? Or would I need a few more upgrades. Money isnt too much of an issue but would rather keep it below 2-3k.

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452592-r33-350-hp-build-need-help/
Share on other sites

if you feel like saving money then just get a hypergear highflow done to your turbo.Those injectors and 18psi on petrol will make 350rw ponies easy.

Adaptronic ecu is much better than a nistune + Z32 afm

  • Like 1

Although 3k might be a little optimistic as around 2k for ecu and turbo, then it needs tune for around 60-1000 depending on where you go, then there's still a fmic kit and exhaust

Guess I'll be spending more money then haha

hyper gear high flow 850.

full 3 inch exhaust and dump, 2-400 drift sales.

injectors and fuel rail, again bargains to be had second hand, 2-800

tune 750

emanage blue 200 dollars or power fc 6-900

fuel pump 100 bucks.

e85.

will make your power figure easily.

  • Like 1

Have you played with the cam timing on the 32 ?

I see in your sig your 33 has a fair few bolt ons, what does the 32 have ?

I guess its your 32 that has 271kw ( if written respectively) plus the 32 GTR is 40kg heavier then the 33 GTS-t and there's fark all difference :/ , try getting the LCAs of the 32 cams to 110-108deg and see if there is still fark all difference :D

or try taking your motor thats been dialed in, and doing power runs at a further 20 degree intake retard, or a 20 degree advance, and see if there are any areas where you can from the extra advance, this will show you the use for vct

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...