Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey sau,

I'm having an issue while bleeding the brakes on my r33 gtst. I have gone through 3 bottles of dot 4 brake fluid already (system is now clear and no dirty fluid anymore). The method I'm using is a combo of the 2 man method and 1 man method with the brake bleeder kit you get with the small bottle etc. I've been using the 2 man method on the front calipers but for the rears I've been using the one man kit and can clearly see so many air bubbles coming out of the rear calipers down into the clear tube.

I haven't left the bmc to run dry, been careful to keep filling when getting low. The air bubbles won't stop. I'm about to go try the gravity bleed method and see what happens.

Things to note are that there wasn't any bubbles at all in the system until I had to change my front caliper mid way through the bleed as I accidentally cross threaded the bleeder nipple hole on my caliper so I swapped it over for another 33 gtst caliper in the garage, after that I've been having the issue with constant air bubbles and a spongy brake pedal that wont stiffen up at all... I thought that all those new air bubbles would disappear just as quick due to having to change a caliper over mid way and the loss of fluid etc would be causing it but I don't know anymore the bubbles on the rear calipers are endless and only started appearing after I changed the front caliper...

Anyone have a similar experience or any ideas? Also I've read different things about gravity bleeding and how people do it one by one or cracking all four nipples at the same time and just waiting.

Does your car have ABS?

If so.. you may have air pockets in the ABS unit, just crack the top bleed points and do what you were doing before.. pedal down, open/close, pedal up.. then bleed the rears...

Once you're done, go on to a quiet area and when safe try to kick in ABS.. to get the pump going. Then back home and bleed some more, that should do the trick.

  • Like 1

Does your car have ABS?

If so.. you may have air pockets in the ABS unit, just crack the top bleed points and do what you were doing before.. pedal down, open/close, pedal up.. then bleed the rears...

Once you're done, go on to a quiet area and when safe try to kick in ABS.. to get the pump going. Then back home and bleed some more, that should do the trick.

Yes it does have ABS. I may try bleeding that then and see how I go. Thanks for the suggestion.

This may be abit of a silly question but the caliper I put on last night had a damaged piston dust boot so I removed a good one from a spare caliper and put it on the newer caliper. However another one next to it looks like it had a small split but I didn't replace that one. Was wondering how bad a little tiny split could be on a dust boot if anyone here knows? I may go back downstairs and change it just to be safe if suggested.

I had a problem with one of those suction bleeders. When you suck fluid, it leaks air past the nipple thread.

So i never could tell if it was done properly.

The two man method uses pressure and is the best way.

I had a problem with one of those suction bleeders. When you suck fluid, it leaks air past the nipple thread.

So i never could tell if it was done properly.

The two man method uses pressure and is the best way.

Yeah I'm going to try the 2 man method on the rear when I can get a helper tonight as I think it's the best way. Has anyone here tried the gravity method?

So abit of an update. Two man bled the brakes all around. No more air bubbles and pedal feels stiffer now. Haven't taken it for a drive but feels a lot different now... I think I will be chucking that one man bleeder kit in the bin.

My one man brake bleed kit is a simple clear hose into a clean tin, hose goes from nipple over top arm and into tin, done cost $2 been using it for 8yrs... Never fails

Sounds like you may have found the problem.

To answer your earlier question, the dust boots have no bearing on the sealing of the piston. They just keep dust and moisture out, which protects the piston assembly from corroding and getting jammed. It's there for longevity of the caliper, rather than performing any sealing / operational function.

Edited by warps

Sounds like you may have found the problem.

To answer your earlier question, the dust boots have no bearing on the sealing of the piston. They just keep dust and moisture out, which protects the piston assembly from corroding and getting jammed. It's there for longevity of the caliper, rather than performing any sealing / operational function.

Cheers thanks for the info :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...