Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU, I need your help. This is a long going issue with my R34GTT that I havent bothered fixing yet, I fitted Bilstein coilovers from another R34 and got new bumpstops n grooves cut in by Sydneykid sometime ago, the pics are old btw.

Issue is all the clanking (esp from the rear strut tops) when hitting mild bumps and imperfections at even 30-40km/h. The fronts also do this, on top of that they creak real loud like a mofo when turning/braking esp on drives, humps etc. At normal speeds you cannot really hear the creaks when turning.

I need to identify which part from my first pic I need to replace, from what I know its the strut mounts or tops but my ones not a single item, rather a series of washers n rubbers>>first pic. So what do I replace and from where, any alternatives or has to be Bilstein? Thanks

post-49401-14238867390831_thumb.jpgpost-49401-14238867568213_thumb.jpg

Well.....only the washers and nuts are Bilstein. Everything else is Skyline.

OK, OK, the bump stops are not OEM, but hell, as if they matter.

They're not really strut tops at either end of the car either, because all they really are is upper spring retainers. There's no bearings in there to make noise. if there's creaking and shit going on, then it's probably in the dampers themselves (or possibly in any one of the other bushes/bearings in the rest of the suspension) and perhaps you should just take it to Gary and get him to have a look.

The noise only started with my Bilsteins- it wasnt there at all with my Cusco coilovers and its definitely coming from the top of the struts both front n rear ( front creaks during turning), so what else could it be- as u said it dorsnt look like these struts have bearings..my suspect is those thick black rubber/plastic washers but please enlighten me

Well, at no time does any part of the damper need to rotate around its axis - there are not "struts"....therefore, any creaking from turning the wheels is either coincidental, or maybe just maybe because the top nuts are loose or something. Otherwise, it's as I said in 1st reply.

The springs are not fully captive if they're banging and clunking, possibly from deteriorated rubber or that the springs are too short for the shock. Creaking from the top hats could be that the rubber has deteriorated and causing the spring edge to rub in its mounting position because it's not completely captive.

Does the spring move at all if you try and jerk it in its mount? Try it on a bench vise.

Sorry guys been pretty busy with stuff, the 'loose spring' is what it probably is because it is not that sprung when captive in the car, I am pretty sure I could turn it on its mounts with a little bit of effort while its still on the car. Will report back later

And loose possibly because I moved it down on Sydneykids standard cut grooves to give the height I want.

I always wondered how people went with the grooves. You could try getting some spacers and placing them inbetween the top hat and lock nut to force the spring captive. But I hold no responsibility if anything happens, as it's just the first idea off the top of my head.

The problem with all this is you are running out of shock travel - note shock travel not spring travel. I don't care how good the shock absorber is if you don't have any stroke for it to work in it wont work.

See here.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/page-1

Part of the fix is to replace the strut tops which gets you shock travel back. As an aside replacing all that old stuff will also get rid of your squeeeeeking & clunking.

  • Like 1

Wont the use of spring spacers simply be the same as moving my springs UP on the cut groves- will give more height n shock travel like spacers will. We pinpointed the creaking to the front left strut (not sure if its from the strut tower top or bottom joint) when turning during the LAST 20-30% of full lock and when the car is leaning sideways on that shock during turning. During the last turns close to lock is when the creaks happen even when parked but moreso at low driveway speed.

The rear strut clanking n rattling tops during small bumps is a separate story

  • 2 weeks later...

My R34 GTT has similar symptoms, I had bilsteins fitted and re-used the stock springs at near-stock heights (dropped the rear a little bit via the circlip grooves on the shock to make it sit level.. the front stayed the same). Occasionally clunks a bit when at slow speeds and turning, eg into/out of driveways. I haven't managed to narrow down what's causing it yet.

I seem to have this issue as well. Clanking and clunking when going over speed humps or moderate road imperfections. I'm running Bilstein B6 Dampers and King Springs.

Rather than a dull thud, the car makes more of a 'crashing' sound for lack of a better term, when going over bumps.

  • 2 weeks later...

Rather than a dull thud, the car makes more of a 'crashing' sound for lack of a better term, when going over bumps.

Check how much "droop" you have. By droop I mean measure the centre-of-wheel-to-arch when the car is on the ground and then jack the car up so the wheels are hanging in the air and measure it again. You need at least a few inches of droop or your shocks will 'top out' out on the exit of a bump. Basically, your car goes over the bump, wheels go up, which pushes the car body up a bit. On the exit of the bump the body is higher, wheels extend and BANG the shocks reach the end of their travel, there is no bump stop in this direction and it sounds really ugly (and will destroy the shock).

The workshop who installed my Bilsteins (who SHOULD KNOW BETTER given their proximity to the Bilstein importer) did not remove the spacer inside the shock that limits droop when used with lowered springs. They gave me a car back that had zero droop at the back. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it.

Just and update, I remove a front dust boot and reinstalled the strut into the car. On level ground there is about 1cm of travel between the (shortened) bump stop and the shock body. That is with King Spring lows and a 1cm lower slot in the spring perch. So I guess I have been bottoming out on everything larger than a pebble lol. Time for some base-height adjustable coil overs.

Just and update, I remove a front dust boot and reinstalled the strut into the car. On level ground there is about 1cm of travel between the (shortened) bump stop and the shock body. That is with King Spring lows and a 1cm lower slot in the spring perch. So I guess I have been bottoming out on everything larger than a pebble lol. Time for some base-height adjustable coil overs.

No. Time for some new strut tops to allow the reinstatement of shock travel.

These ones.

http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/coilover-spare-parts

Get the ones with the rubber bushes front and rear but you have to ask them for the front ones as they aren't listed.

But read this first to understand you need a couple of other bits to make them fit your Bilsteins - plus they work with 65mm springs not the Kings. If you want to retain the King springs you may need something different. Not sure what that would be.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/page-1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...