Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, this is my first time posting here. I would first of all like to say that Im pretty much a total noob, and that I just like to get in the car and drive it without thinking too much about fiddling with the mechanical parts or anything.

Im after the R33 because it apparently has more interior room than the R32. I'll probably be wanting one with an automatic transmission because Im lazy (and I haven't driven a manual before). Im looking at getting a new car next year, so I have plenty of time to do some research.

Some main questions I would like to ask:

- How hard is it to maintain this car? Is there any extra care that I need to take in regards to the turbo?

- What is the fuel economy like? Is it better than or about the same as the Falcon/Commodore V8s? Can you use regular unleaded or do you need to use premium?

- Is it easy to fit new stereo systems in? If I got someplace to do it for me, would they know what to do or would they need instructions first?

- Are they fitted with an alarm and/or immobiliser or do I need to get one fitted?

- Considering that there are a lot of Skylines around, I would think there would be a lot of parts available, but do I still need to take extra precautions in this area?

I would appreciate some feedback from you guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45387-thinking-of-buying-an-r33/
Share on other sites

- Maintenance is pretty much the same as any car its age. Regular oil changes, i do mine every 5000km but you could get away with 8000km or even 10000km if you use fully synthetic, which you should. Regular servicing, timing belt and water pump change at 100,000km intervals etc. All standard stuff.

- Fuel economy all depends on how and where you drive. Highway you will see in excess of 400km to a tank but around the city expect 300km per tank. You must use 98 octane and only resort to premium or regular unleaded if you are desperate.

- Any car audio place will have fitted 250000000 skylines before so no dramas.

- There is no factory alarm in an R33 really. Some had factory remote entry but not many. Many examples for sale in dealers will have aftermarket alarms.

- Parts are readily available but slightly more expensive than say holden parts, but theyre coming down in price. You have many options nowdays though with so many import wreckers. Nissan will also get new parts in for you.

Hmm, that sounds good. I can't wait to get one now!! :)

Oh and one more thing I wanted to ask. How long does it take for the turbo to cool down? If the car isn't fitted with a turbo timer, then is it absolutely necessary to get one? If so, then why aren't they fitted as standard?

Hmm, that sounds good. I can't wait to get one now!!  :)  

Oh and one more thing I wanted to ask. How long does it take for the turbo to cool down? If the car isn't fitted with a turbo timer, then is it absolutely necessary to get one? If so, then why aren't they fitted as standard?

thats a grey area, some people like timers some people hate em.

it all depends how patient you are.

i have a timer and set it then get out and stand around within remote range and arm it as soon as it shuts down

if i've been driving realitively sedately i usually to cool down for about 30seconds

driving a little hard too close to home and it should be around 1-2 mins

Your turbo will cool down easy.

On a summers day after sitting on 100+km/h, it'll cool from 850-900 to 400 within 3 to 4 blocks at 50km/h, even less time in winter. If you are fanging it hard around a race strip, it might take a bit longer.

If you are only doing 50-60km/h in town, I would just turn it off like any NA car [unless its a stinking hot +40 day, then 30 seconds cool down maybe??].

I've got an exhaust gauge on mine, and turbo's cool down quick all year round except for the +40 days. If you take your time parking etc then you can consider it cooled down.

Turbo's aren't working much below 3,000rpm, and this is about [depending on gearing etc]100 to 120km/h in top, they are 'on sort of' below this, but are 'idling sort of', so they don't get as hot as if they are boosting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...