Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No limit to budget, but was going to buy a ebay manifold...????

Sounds like you dont really have a clue about what is involved in "your dreams"...

Sorry, i know you dont want to hear negs, but really your about to waste alot of time and money and end up with very little, i fear

it looked good to me,

he claims a life time warranty (which may or may not be 100% true its ebay after all)

i was asking for advice, not to get told that i dont know anything

boys, be human for a second, if i thought that i knew everything, why would i come online and ask questions

im happy to hear of better ways to do things, that way i will build a better car,

btw, this idea has progressed into a new project, i have decided to throw a VR38 into the r32

i started a new thread,

If you look hard enough for Ebay manifold Reviews you will find a thread about some Madzaspeed 3 guys who are using manifolds that look JUST like this that are made by XS-power. They are the GEN 3 manifolds from XS-power and the thread has guys who have been testing the XS-power gen1-3 manifolds. It's strange that this one seems to be made by this TOG shop and looks JUST like the geometry of the XS-power RB26dett T4 divided manifold, but is welded steam pipe. This is what XS-power has done with their gen3 Mazdaspeed manifold.

Another note (not that I'm trying so hard to justify "china" manifolds), but Aaron with Driftmotion.com over here in the states has been using China manifolds for YEARS on his budget Supra turbo kits. He offers REAL Garrett turbos, but he has said that some of the China manifold brands have had some amazingly reliable results on their cars. He likes the wastegates, BOV's, and Manifolds and says he doesn't stock anything that doesn't work. He did say some of them are clearly junk, while other brands are tried and true. He did steer me to some specific brands to look for since he doesn't sell manifolds for RB engines yet and wanted me to send him specific pictures of what I find. Guinea pig!

Either way I hope it drives The Full-Race or other similar brands pricing back down into reality. It sure is hard to justify spend more on a "dumb iron" piece of pipe than the actual turbo (which has decades of engineering research, and moving parts!).

Found it. Post number 654

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/xs-power-turbo-manifold-here-install-pics-154973/index17.html#post2767493

Edited by HarrisRacing

your too right mate

im my line of work we design and manufacture products

once the hard work has been done and all the plans are made,

it is easy to copy it, you can make a good copy or a crappy copy

you can get some indication from the quality by the reputation of the re seller and the support they promise

a reputable re seller will not stock garbage (you would hope)

and in my head, whats the worst that could happen, it will crack,

its not like its gonna explode and kill me and everyone in the car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...