Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

take the car for a spin, then park it on jack stands and/or a hoist.. once the motor is off and the cooling system is inactive you might be able to see a build up as the water heats up from lack of airflow.

Is the join for your heater hoses leaking? I only say that cause mine has a very slight leak which I missed the first time I went looking for a leak. Assume R34's are the same

Otherwise (and hopefully not for you) it may be a leaking welch plug in the block inside the bellhousing. When I built my engine I was really lucky I pressure tested the cooling system before it was ready to go back in the car. The plug was leaking and I had to change it.

Some RB heads also have a welsh plug also on the back of the head.

Known to pop on high powered builds, when they do most people put a new one in a go around the alloy on the edge with a center punch to stake them in, in our case we welded the bung shut with a billet plug.

Maybe get her up to cooling pressure and go around with a small mirror on a extension (you can buy them at supercheap) to have a look around.

I will get some pics up of it. I bought the engine with the ffp already on it and I know that some of the coolent lines running of the manifold where plugged up I found one at the back top of the engine was weeping

Its usually from the turbo coolant line at back of the head.

Is the join for your heater hoses leaking? I only say that cause mine has a very slight leak which I missed the first time I went looking for a leak. Assume R34's are the same

this or this is my call too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Based off what you’ve said here, I think I’ve figured out a good bit of what I’ve done wrong -  So on the line going from the PCV valve to carbon canister, there’s a T joint that is pretty much right next to that lower port - I hadn’t noticed that the hose in the diagram was curved to attach onto the carb, so I was putting that line for the lower port onto the PCV line / carbon canister line instead. I’m going to have a flick through the manual again tomorrow and should hopefully find a diagram that’ll show me where that T joint should be connected to. Timing also 100% needs to be sorted out as well, should be able to tackle that tomorrow as well. Definitely feel like I should be on the right track now though. 
    • The screw is for idle (pilot circuit) mixture adjustment. Else, I'm confused ~ the diagram shows 2 carby ports, and the intake manifold port, but you're suggesting the "2nd port on the back of the carb that isn’t mentioned in the diagrams" ...yet, both carby ports are shown...que?... ...in any event, that port should be connected, but if not (like it is now), it's unlikely to cause a backfire out the carby (it would introduce false air and give you a fast/lean idle) ...sounds more like timing issues/spark plug wire routing responsible for the backfiring.    
    • That's fair, I can see both points. I get enthusiastic when I see the FS section has a new post and want to see what interesting thing someone is selling. Then I get deflated it's a bump of a 10 year old post. Ha ha
    • Couple of litres of moonshine from his southern cousins would do it...
×
×
  • Create New...