Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello.

Put simply, I was given this Dual stage EBC From my mate. Still brand new in the box ( Win! )

I have installed it, as per instructions.. at least my interpretation of the instructions.

Basically, I just want to double check I have done it correctly, and what I should run it at/what is best etc

I have the standard Ecu, Turbo back 3" Exhaust. and a pod filter.

I am aware the issues with winding the boost up too far and the ecu going "Emo" I have set it on 7psi and 11.

Doesn't seem to like 11 too much, but holds both, no spikes etc.

im not concerned with the wiring side of things, that was easy. just the solenoid etc

This is what the instructions said, atleast what I think they said, it seems to be all working ok, just need a comfirmation/advice from people who have had more experience as I am a Noob

post-134861-0-13468300-1424682718_thumb.jpg

post-134861-0-37765800-1424682725_thumb.jpg

The instructions say to because almost all cars have an FPR, but many turbo cars don't necessarily have a boost gauge. Boost gauge tapping point is less of a problem for the engine if you spit/split the hose. FPR hose is a big problem if you open it up under load.

ok, i am glad, that i used a different hose and didn't hack up the original. so put the hose back on the FPR, and use the factory boost gauge line. it doesn't like the higher setting too much. i am guessing because of this reason?

it doesn't like the higher setting too much. i am guessing because of this reason?

No. It doesn't like 11 psi because R33 ECUs are emofag window-licker sooky lala pieces of shit. Look up "R&R" which is "rich and retard" for your ongoing education about your car.

ok, i am glad, that i used a different hose and didn't hack up the original. so put the hose back on the FPR, and use the factory boost gauge line. it doesn't like the higher setting too much. i am guessing because of this reason?

now you need one of your other mates to give you an aftermarket ECU or at a minimum a Toshi modified/reflashed stock ECU.

You've opened a can of worms. I suggest run lower boost so the stock ecu is happyish and instead of spending money on any more parts put it in the bank. Marry a nice girl and buy a house one day.

You've opened a can of worms. I suggest run lower boost so the stock ecu is happyish and instead of spending money on any more parts put it in the bank. Marry a nice girl and buy a house one day.

LOL...

spot on, these cars are money pits.. they're worse than a drug addiction

Lol.. yeah, I have a wife and a house.

Never owned a turbo car before so this side of things is new.

Not my first modified car though.

I use this as my family car, I have a baby seat in it at all times. ( for those days we go somewhere that is a nice cruise ) Otherwise we have a VZ.

Turned it down, car is happyish now.

Just got to move the vacuum line. And it's all good :)

Edited by CaptainFresh

if you want a bang for buck ECU "reflash" (I use that term loosely as it's actually more than just a flash) contact a tuner name Toshi (he's also a business sponsor here).

He has off the shelf ECU remaps for basic mods such as more boost, FMIC, exhaust, etc.. and it's pretty cheap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...