Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate,

i am having this same problem, also using shit tons of fuel(roughly 200km to a tank). my car needs the o2 sensor replaced. i have ordered it from nissan and will let you know how it goes fixing it.

my car blows fuel smoke on full throttle. the idle likes to wander from 800 to 500. and when it goes to 500 it sounds like it's missing.

my stag was never good on fuel from the day i bought it. and only threw the o2 sensor code, 6 months after i bought it.

will keep you informed

Where are you djtee? There is something seriously wrong with your car for it to be going through that much fuel, I doubt the o2 sensor will be the only issue, as the rich running will have ruined it. Could be worth sticking the Consult 3 on it.

Where are you djtee? There is something seriously wrong with your car for it to be going through that much fuel, I doubt the o2 sensor will be the only issue, as the rich running will have ruined it. Could be worth sticking the Consult 3 on it.

im in sydney mate, i purchased one of your afm's about 3 months ago.

i've had it plugged into a diagnostic computer, and all it came up with was the o2 secsor, it wasn't giving any signal at all...

today i checked for airleaks/broken airlines to the fuel regulator, but it was all sealed nicely.

Hi guys,

well i ripped the cat out out the dump pipe and fuel economy has returned to normal, still have a bit of a rough idle but the power down has returned and driving great again, im not sure what i would have to do to correct the idle but i am happy that the car is back to normal driving if not better!

only thing i can think of is replacing the o2 sensor. might try that soon.

thanks heaps Scotty!

I hope this cant help other people, and i would recommend getting rid of that constrictive front dump/cat!

  • 2 years later...

I am having a similar issue, but it's only missing under load.  When it starts making boost, it seems that it starts to have a miss.

The interesting thing is I ended up getting a fault code a couple of times indicating a coil issue before this missing under load started, which I have cleared, reset, dropped the power from the battery and everything goes back to normal.  The coil issue would only happen after leaving the car for a while, starting and then it would run rough (like one cylinder was down), then all of a sudden come good, but the engine check light would come up.

  • 1 year later...

I'm still having this issue.  I've checked all the plugs, replaced all the coils (thinking it was a bad coil and I had done 150K on them...)

For some reason it's an intermittent fault.  It happens when the car is idling (cold), feels like it's missing, but it's not regular.  Then under full throttle (so boost) it will miss regularly.  No fault codes, no engine light.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts?

I've had a bit of trouble with old and hardened manifold vac/boost hoses blowing off under boost. Last one was difficult to spot since the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator) end had come off. I now know what to look for when the idle goes a bit wonky... but it shouldnt happen now that the bad hoses have been replaced.

You could start the motor and remove the non-manifold end of each hose one at a time. Block the end with your thumb to verify there's vacuum and that the idle changes. If you have a vacuum gauge check what the manifold has at idle.

 

Heya Stabby man.  Yes, your thought process is along mine aswell. I thought it was a vacuum leak somewhere initially, and found a hose that I thought was causing the problem that was going to the OEM ECU boost sensor, but after replacing said tube, the issue is still there.

Now working with my local trusted mechanic, I have had plugs replaced , the issue still exists.  I am currently using 'Hanshin' coils from Ebay (supposedly the same as OEM...) and currently suspect these may be causing the issue.

Does anyone have a cheap way of buying OEM Nissan coils.  Currently Kudos Motorsport have them for $136.40 (NIS-22448-AL61C)

The frustrating thing with this is it's intermittent. The car will idle fine, but then all of a sudden miss and stumble.  The only reliable thing is when it's under load it will miss.  Thinking this is coils currently.

Mine would idle ok when cold, and when hot it would idle for a short time ok, then get rough. With RB motors i've heard of circumstances where the coilpacks get marginal when they're hot. Havent heard of that with VQ coils but it could be a thing.

Oh - the other issue i noticed when there was a vac leak was that both fuel trims would max out (one at +25% and the other at +10%). info  https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280322-m35-obd2-or-is-it/page/4/#comments

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if it still spikes, just for now, turn off VCT completely by disabling it OR simply unplug the solenoid. Just to rule out excessive exhaust pressure. I recall a video from Motive DVD about a decade ago, where Hawkins original single Garrett GTX3582 or so turbo had boost control issues sub 1.4bar of boost as well.   Food for thought? Is there anyway you can peg the WG completely open and/or dodgily not plumb it back into your exhaust system for testing purposes?
    • I will endeavour to give it a crack sooner or later. I have the wastegate apart at the moment so I'll replace it with a smaller spring just to see what it does and if I have to go back then so be it.   If it spikes to 23 but can then be controlled back to 20, then the gate must not be 100% open... So if it's not 100% open then why can't it drop the boost even further than 20psi (I understand it's not linear). What a headache this whole thing is.
    • Either the WG is reaching full opening, or it is not. The "it is not" case could only occur if there was not enough time available to swing the valve fully open during that boost event. I would consider that to be unlikely, as this is a commercial product that is in use elsewhere, so it really should work. But in your case, because there is definitely SOMETHING wrong, it should not be assumed that things like that are working as they should. You should put a video camera where it can see the actuator (if at all possible) during a run to see how far it is moving.
    • I think you're mostly on the ball there. With the straight gate, I suspect the weight of the spring will determine how quickly the gate can close, when not run with active pressure drive on both sides of the diaphragm. Otherwise, with drive on both sides of the diaphragm, you could almost go without a spring at all, only needing one to make sure that the thing was actually closed while completely off boost and not having pressure available to drive it closed. Butterfly valves have mostly symmetric loading when there is flow going through them, meaning that the gas hitting the upstream part of the blade is balanced by the gas hitting the downstream part of the blade, which means you don't need actuator torque to overcome any non-symmetric flow induced loads. But the gas flow does impart a purely normal load against the shaft, which transfers into the bush/bearing at each end of the shaft and does increase the torque required to make the shaft turn. Only a little, but it is there. I have no feeling for the amount of force involved in a WG application, but it certainly could make an argument for a decent spring weight being required. But all of this is just peripheral to the actual problem here.
    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
×
×
  • Create New...