Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will need to be repaired and blue slipped to get off written off register I believe??

I had a car written off and paid out 3500 but only cost 400 to buy it back... Might be worth it depending on repair costs.

first quote was 7600 :/ reason why im so concerned about this is because ive just put about 7k into the motor

What do you reckon they will say dale? I still have to get one more quote an see what happens. Has anyone ever fought a insurance company in regards to writing a car off due to hail? Because by the look ofthe first quote im going to be right on the boarder line of being written off.

I'm betting that they'll write it off; it's only insured for $4k, and this is the last year we were going to fully comp insure it.

Because it's with Shannon's; I'm hoping that they'll pay it out, let me retain the "wreck" and then simply restrict us to 3rd party property insurance in future.

Could always buy it back? Not sure on how that process works though

With Shannon's I have first refusal for the wreck; but my repairer reckons that they'll probably just let me have it with a slightly reduced payout, to account for the buy back value.

Just read through it. Yeah i can buy the car back for salvage and have first pick. Still dont know what % of value they work off though

They'll have it valued for auction, when I bought mine the valuer told me what he was going to tell the insurance company it was worth (sneakily) and they offered the same price to me.. ie no mark up

Yes, it's insured (as a Genki) for $17,400, so the damage doesn't come into the 80 percentile whereby it could become a write-off.

Volvo XC T6 - $3,400 for PDR only.

* Note that after the panels are all smooth again...

a) all dented mouldings are mandatory replacement items so that no water can enter any crevices

* But...

b) any scratches created by the hail are not covered and thus; no polishing is included in a hail claim

* After I get the cars back, we'll have to see about that! I shall need proper lighting to reflect and refract any scratches, because unless the paint is in its former condition, I believe that according to the PDS, I have a case for complaint.

I'm not surprised by the damage to the Mazda Terry; it's comparable to the last time Shell's car was damaged by similar sized hail.

Interesting how much less pdr is required on the XC60; clearly a lot more high tensile steel panelwork on it.

I agree regarding scratches from hail; the car MUST be returned to it's pre-hail damaged condition, for the repairs to be considered complete.

If the roof required replacement; they couldn't just hand it back in guide coat.

Hope you have a good outcome Adrian!

Still waiting for am answer on ours, Shannon's rang yesterday to ask when the car was going to be presented for assessment; it's already been viewed and photographed, our repairer had obviously neglected to submit his quote.

I'm wondering whether he is the right man for the job...




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...