Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been trying to do this all morning with no luck. I have read how to enter diag. mode but my ecu does not have the selector screw, and also does not have the diag connector. Therefore i cannot enter diag mode.

I dont have any LEDs on the ecu either so i guess i go by the engine check light.

I have a 95mdl GTST, anyone else have this problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928326
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928600
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Thats the problem, there is no connector. Can anyone post a pic of where theirs is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928769
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Yeah i took the ecu right out and there were 2 holes, possibly where the LEDs go on the other models. Mine just had a blanking sticker over the holes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928774
Share on other sites

Where are you, i can get hold of a carmen scan tool, does all imports to current models and also displays active data.

Does the scan tool plug into the wiring harness or ecu or both? I would be interested in been shown what it does.

I am in quakers hill, about 25 mins from penrith

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928777
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack

but i wanted to get my ecu out to see if it is a stock one or not, cause it doesnt cut out at 180

can anyone help?

ive tried to get the kick panel out but after i take off two screws it is still connected by something else behind it

Mine only had the 1 screw closest to the front near the firewall but has 2 clips that need a good tug to break free. get a commone screwdriver and wedge it between the panel at the back of it, near the door seal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928779
Share on other sites

i had to lift of the plastic sill (with skyline embossed) then unscrew that plastic nut near the firewall

then i unscrewed one of the dash compartment screws so that i could get it out a bit easier

once i done that it still has a clip of some sort that needs to be undone or something, im guessing that is what needs a good tug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928786
Share on other sites

Jason, they ECU has 3 bolts holding it in, one on firewall and two on other end!

Damo, mine has a clear platic sticker with Jap writing over the screw.. it's within the hole and needs a small flat head screw driver! if it has no LED's then just turn clockwise all the way the turn it back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-929282
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

The engine needs to be running. Disconnect Water Temp sender with engine running, then run diagnostics.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-930091
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...