Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been trying to do this all morning with no luck. I have read how to enter diag. mode but my ecu does not have the selector screw, and also does not have the diag connector. Therefore i cannot enter diag mode.

I dont have any LEDs on the ecu either so i guess i go by the engine check light.

I have a 95mdl GTST, anyone else have this problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928326
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928600
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Thats the problem, there is no connector. Can anyone post a pic of where theirs is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928769
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Yeah i took the ecu right out and there were 2 holes, possibly where the LEDs go on the other models. Mine just had a blanking sticker over the holes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928774
Share on other sites

Where are you, i can get hold of a carmen scan tool, does all imports to current models and also displays active data.

Does the scan tool plug into the wiring harness or ecu or both? I would be interested in been shown what it does.

I am in quakers hill, about 25 mins from penrith

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928777
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack

but i wanted to get my ecu out to see if it is a stock one or not, cause it doesnt cut out at 180

can anyone help?

ive tried to get the kick panel out but after i take off two screws it is still connected by something else behind it

Mine only had the 1 screw closest to the front near the firewall but has 2 clips that need a good tug to break free. get a commone screwdriver and wedge it between the panel at the back of it, near the door seal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928779
Share on other sites

i had to lift of the plastic sill (with skyline embossed) then unscrew that plastic nut near the firewall

then i unscrewed one of the dash compartment screws so that i could get it out a bit easier

once i done that it still has a clip of some sort that needs to be undone or something, im guessing that is what needs a good tug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928786
Share on other sites

Jason, they ECU has 3 bolts holding it in, one on firewall and two on other end!

Damo, mine has a clear platic sticker with Jap writing over the screw.. it's within the hole and needs a small flat head screw driver! if it has no LED's then just turn clockwise all the way the turn it back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-929282
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

The engine needs to be running. Disconnect Water Temp sender with engine running, then run diagnostics.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-930091
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...