Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i have a Tial MVR external wastegate and a Gizmo ebc ( first edition) 4 memory

I was running gate spring pressure @ 16 pound fine.

I now tried to hook my EBC up like below

Blocked off the remaining air ports on the wastegate, 2 bottom, 1 top there is total 3 bottom 2 top.

Problem is, when hooked up this way, with the controller set to 0 or even the mac solenoid unplugged

I boost to possibly over 24 psi

2 questions.

1. Is this correct?

2. If your ebc stops working, do you overboost?

ewg_conn_1.GIF

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455280-external-wastegate-ebc-problem/
Share on other sites

I have a Synapse wastegate with 4 ports and it took me a while to work out how to set it up. I had to reread the instructions for the W/G a few times. What I am saying is the instructions that came with the EBC may be not enough to tell you how to set up your Tial. Is there anything on their website?

BTW what kind of ECU do you have? It may do a better job of controlling your Mac valve than the EBC.

Pardon me if I am wrong.....but ...... all of the lower air ports are common, aren't they? They just give you orientation options for making connections. So effectively you have one top port and one bottom port, same as pretty much any EWG actuator, and treat it as such.

Which is what i have done.
Blocked off the unused ports, i only have 1 line in the lower, and 1 line in the upper.

If i do have it plumbed in correctly, ( which i believe i do ), if for some reason my EBC is not working, would that cause no pressure to get to the wastegate therefore making the gate never open?

If that is how this routing works, seems like a bad point of failure if your ebc loses power/stops working

Im hoping i understand this wrong.

Also, if you have the solenoid ports the wrong way around you can mess yourself up.

The whole thing with the top/bottom ports on EWG actuators is that the boost gets applied to one side of the diaphragm to help keep the gate closed until the EBC opens the solenoid to also put boost on the other side of the diaphragm, and therefore start to open it and control boost. If the solenoid is hooked up wrong you can get into trouble.

You can set up EWGs without using top and bottom ports. Perhaps have a look at the EBC instructions to see how to do that and try to see if you have any boost control action at all.

Ok so it was 2 problems
The Gizmo Diagram was wrong.

Swapped around the lines.

Copied my brothers setup, ( different ebc but still mac )

But didnt raise boost, but gate was opening now.

Traced wiring, and the solenoid pins going into the Controller where pushed out of the plug hah...

So all working now.

20 psi tune tomorrow ftw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...