Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to the wonders of cheap LEDs from china, I set about changing a few blown dash lights, only to go ahead and replace about 35 bulbs in the dash, climate control, cigarette lighter and shift lever. The results are quite impressive, I just hope these chinese ones dont blow prematurely. These are white LEDs, which make the gauges appear blue, the yellow lights (such as 4WD, synchro, defrost etc) have a touch more green in the colour (a little strange looking I admit), the red lights appear more pink, while the green lights just appear more vibrant.

If I had to do them in future, I would probably use white for gauges and green lights, red for red lights, warm white for yellow lights.

Also don't use an LED in the low fuel warning light. The circuit always has current running through it and it will constantly light an LED.

post-46287-0-94310900-1428472043_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455523-show-us-your-pilot-seat-lightshow/
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Are all those just pop-out type LED's or did you have to re-solder some of them?

Most of mine on the gloria require soldering, which I dont mind doing. But the interior pieces are just such a pain in the arse to remove. afraid im gonna break some.

Are all those just pop-out type LED's or did you have to re-solder some of them?

Most of mine on the gloria require soldering, which I dont mind doing. But the interior pieces are just such a pain in the arse to remove. afraid im gonna break some.

The lights in the dash cluster are all accessible from the back of the cluster (which obviously means removal of a few interior pieces...annoying I admit). There are T5 sockets on the back of the cluster which twist out and accept a T5 wedge bulb.

I have an aftermarket head unit with its own internal lighting, which I didn't change.

The climate control unit has a number of "neo wedge" bulbs. Normally they take tiny "grain of wheat" incandescent bulbs. I think they are 5mm. You can get LED replacement sets on ebay, however I found that they did not screw in, and so I had to retrofit the SMD LED and resistor into the existing plastic bulb holder. It would be important to use SMD LEDs in the screen area, as you want maximum light dispersion. A regular lensed led will point the light directly downwards, but they may work OK in the lights for the buttons.

The ashtray light takes a T5 wedge bulb, and takes a little effort to dismantle.

The shifter light takes a T10 wedge bulb, but it must be a short one otherwise it wont screw in. I ended up adding a resistor to dull the light, as it was too bright.

Pro level: lastly I replaced the blown "grain of wheat" bulbs in the auto transmission power/snow switch. That requires dismantling the switch itself and creatively shoehorning both an led and resistor in each bulb slot.

I do like that color in the dials; is that just bulb upgrade in a standard dash?

I do like that color in the dials; is that just bulb upgrade in a standard dash?

it is not simple LED bulb upgrade. i can't figure out how does it work, but there is LED control unit box out side the cluster. also there is a switch to control the LED brightness.

post-137368-0-35123700-1455078410_thumb.jpg

post-137368-0-48905100-1455078416_thumb.jpg

Some additional control of the led lights would be ideal in most cases, for brightness etc. If I had some spare time and money I would probably use an arduino to take care of the speedo, tacho fuel and temp gauge. I had to rebuild my tachometer circuitry, but it can't be correctly calibrated without some additional mapping, which the arduino could provide.

it is not simple LED bulb upgrade. i can't figure out how does it work, but there is LED control unit box out side the cluster. also there is a switch to control the LED brightness.

attachicon.gif24198c.jpg&&0){for(var>

attachicon.gif24198d.jpg

This makes sense now; it's also a complete overlay of the dash face as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...