Jump to content
SAU Community

Trouble Shooting

CEF33Y

By CEF33Y,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

CEF33Y Experienced

CEF33Y

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I 've got a issue with my R33 gtst.

Hoping to get some advice before I start replacing things.

So, randomly, the car will start spluttering, missing. The only thing that seems to fix it is stopping, turning the car off then starting it again and its fine.

It also seems random, I can do the 150km round trip to work and not have an issue.

Yet the other day when it happened, I got out of the car with it spluttering, and noticed plumes of black smoke out of the exhaust, so its obviously running rich.

Turned it off then back on, and it cleared up in a few seconds and was fine.

So, at this stage im thinking AFM. or maybe temp sensor?

So far i've changed spark plugs, air filter, pulled AFM lid off to check the solder joints (all ok).

Cleaned the afm with contact cleaner.

Checked all plugs on loom/sensors.

Nothing has made a difference. Got 50 km into the trip this moring and again, spluttering, anything more than light throttle and it just dies.

Would the 02 sensor affect this? Does the 02 sensor only work below a certain rpm? Tried putting it in 3rd (its auto) and the issue was still there. (so about 3700rpm).

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455923-trouble-shooting/
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

AFM and 02 impact the air/fuel ratio. Ie rich or lean.

So do vacuum leaks so check for these also

You have cleaned and checked the AFM.

02 being faulty is a good candidate

Chk engine light does not always come on when these fail.

They can be tested on/off the car. Google Testing 02 Sensor.

Seems it occurs when warmed up.

Oh and a faulty water temp sensor can also cause what you describe

Edited by Sinista32
CEF33Y Experienced

CEF33Y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The random nature of the fault points towards dry joints on the AFM or a bad connection somewhere. Try resoldering the AFM first as it's cheap and easy. (unless you can try a known good one.)

Pulled the lid off and the afm and the joints look good.

I do agree it seems like a bad connection though.

CEF33Y Experienced

CEF33Y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You can't see dry solder joints without a magnifying glass. Remove the old solder and replace it with new, it's usually the pins from the plug that vibrate and crack over time.

So I checked the afm solder joints again, while I was resoldering the pins, I noticed 2 dodgy looking joints on the board itself, re soldered these, put car back together, and wow, it's never ran so smooth!

Just thought I'd reply with how I went, for future searching purposes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...