Clutch Questions On An R32

[GSX-R35]

After getting my freshly bought car checked out by two different mechanics I trust, they've concluded it needs a new throwout bearing soonish because it's quite noisy. Since that means dropping the clutch and the one in the car is super heavy I figured I should just swap it for a new one at the same time to avoid redoing it later. I don't know what clutch the car currently has but it's a bear in traffic and the car's been modified so I wouldn't be surprised if it's running an aftermarket one. I figured I'd get a Nismo Coppermix twin-plate but had some questions. I did a search but didn't quite find the answers I need.

1. The car's a 1990 Nismo so in theory it should have a push-type clutch but since it's been modified I can't rule out the small possibility the gearbox has been swapped. I highly doubt it was but is it possible to tell whether the gearbox is a push versus pull-type clutch without removing it? I'd rather not order the wrong type of clutch and find out later once the tranny is out.

2. Assuming the car still has the original push-type configuration is there any big benefit to converting to pull-type? From looking around it looks like the prices for a Nismo Coppermix shipped to me here in the US would be pretty much the same whether push or pull so should I just stick to push-type for simplicity or is there an advantage to converting it?

Thanks for your help in advance.

[GTSBoy]

1. Yuh. Push type slave cylinders push on the clutch fork. Pull types pull on it. Google for images, it's not hard.

2. Do not change. No advantages of any value.

[breaker1845]

You should have a push type slave on the r32 gearbox and you can see its position by getting under the car and looking.

You can interchange between push and pull but you need to have the correct clutch, change the slave, etc, etc and its a lot of effort for no gain really. There are kits out there that you can buy and has all that is required.

If you get under the car and look you can see where the slave is sitting and that will determine if you have push/pull type setup, use google to aid you.

Someone may have converted it before you but I'd assume they haven't to start with and check before purchasing the clutch. If the car has an r33 gearbox they could of converted from pull to push and you'd still be fine.

If you buy the Nismo Coppermix kit it comes with a lightened Flywheel and all the goodies required to do the install except the alignment tool. Best to have a look at replacing the input shaft bearing, rear main seal and the other bearings in that region while there if they need doing.

Edited April 28, 2015 by breaker1845

[Hadouken]

1. Yuh. Push type slave cylinders push on the clutch fork. Pull types pull on it. Google for images, it's not hard.

2. Do not change. No advantages of any value.

This

Google

[iruvyouskyrine]

Post a pic in here of the clutch slave cylinder. If the slave is on the front side of the clutch fork (IE slave is on the front side of the car) then it is a push type clutch arrangement. If it is sitting behind the clutch fork then it is a pull type clutch.

[Duncan]

don't bother with anything unless you really have some money you need to spend.....apart from the noise a bad thrust bearing can go for years without any issue.

Just change it when you actually need a clutch

[GTRPSI]

Well both slave cylinders on push and pull setups push the clutch fork lever, its the lever that actually pushes or pulls the throwout/release bearing, the slave does not actually pull the lever.

Best way to tell is if the slave cylinder is bolted to the front of the car compared to the lever its a push type, if the slave cylinder is bolted towards the rear of the car compared to the lever its a pull type.

This can be reversed is its had a push to pull conversion so be careful if someones fitted a conversion kit to it.

[GSX-R35]

Thanks for all the help everybody. We checked out the slave and confirmed it's still a push-type and I'll be planning on ordering the new clutch relatively soon, just need to find the best place to get it price and time wise. I've had a couple of my friends check out the car - one who runs a local race shop and also the service manager of my local Nissan dealer and they pretty much say the same thing that I can live with the thrust bearing for a bit longer but better to fix it sooner rather than later. I'd rather spend the money on some other bits and bobs the car needs but mechanical issues must take precedence over aesthetic ones lol.

Thanks again and I much appreciate the help and quick responses.