Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I am a bit of a newb with turbo set ups and have just brought my first turbo powered car a S1 R33!

At the moment I am running a turbo smart boost controller with the stock gauge that does not seem to be very accurate and only reads up to 7psi.

I would really like to upgrade this and I am trying to work out weather to get a gauge and stay with my turbo smart mechanical controller or to go the electronic one, so I am looking at for and against's. Am I right in assuming that with the electronic controller I can adjust the amount of boost and it will tell me how much boost I am running?

Also as far as fitment is concerned I would like to have a go at fitting it myself and I was wondering if the electronic one would be fairly straight forward for me to hook up or would I have to pay someone to do it? I do have basic mechanical knowledge with motorbikes ect but not real good with electronics.

Thanks

Andy

Congrats on getting a skyline, they are a good fun car and fairly easy to work on, alot of cheap parts around for them too. There's tons of threads already with good info on what you've asked, best to do some searching and narrow down your q's first.

At the moment I am running a turbo smart boost controller with the stock gauge that does not seem to be very accurate and only reads up to 7psi.

it actually is pretty accurate, however the scaling is in torr - which people have no understanding about.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torr

Stock gauge is in mmHg x100 from -7 to +7, not psi for a start. Which if you do the conversion is about up to 14 psi (not quite) at +7.

There is heaps of information on electronic and mechanical boost controllers and you should read up on how each works, the benefits and how it would suit your cars setup and what you plan to do in the future. There are many combinations but not all will suit what you want so picking the ideal one could take some time before even purchasing the item.

Setting up a boost controller is fairly easy and there are heaps of topics on this also, but if you know f**k all about electronics or anything mechanical it could take you a long time or you will get something wrong. So take the time to learn and research and make sure its running right before boosting your car and possibly free boosting it, lol.

If you have only just got the car it might be a good idea to do a full service on it if you haven't already starting with fluids, belts and anything that could be a problem while researching boost controllers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...