Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

recently i got a HKS OBD2 tool. these day I found the water temp is getting to 99-101 degree when stop and wait traffic light or heavy traffic. (but when driving, the water temp is 87-90 degree based on the environment temperature. actually the environment temp is around 22-25 degree these day in Sydney and it is not hot)

is it normal temp when idle? the stock water gauge is in normal status but you know the stock gauge is lazy unless the water is really really hot.

Edited by YangLIU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/
Share on other sites

There is a few good mods to drop those Temps and keep them more stable. Scottys cooling mod will help with stability, there are thicker core radiator options. And the nismo thermostat. Grab all those and it should drop into the 80s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530744
Share on other sites

There is a few good mods to drop those Temps and keep them more stable. Scottys cooling mod will help with stability, there are thicker core radiator options. And the nismo thermostat. Grab all those and it should drop into the 80s

i have alloy radiator and i think that's enough for daily drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530793
Share on other sites

IF and I mean IF you can find one get a copper core radiator, that is likely to be a big ask because they are expensive but much more durable that alloy as thermal cycling will eventually crack an alloy radiator.
Copper tends to handle the flex much better. Modern radiators with their folded clip tanks and "O" rings are cheap to produce and replace but the do have a finite life especially with the FRP used in the moulded tanks and other components.

As for the running temp the higher and more stable you can keep it the better, ie if it runs at 95 C that's fine if it stays 5 deg either side of that, but radical excursions above and below create a lot of thermal stress.
remember a 15 Lb cap for instance will raise the boiling point to roughly 120 C depending on the actual coolant you are using so if your engine is reporting 99-101 once hot that is likely about mid gauge scale.

I know racing is just a little different to street but the hotter the better without boiling is considered by many as the norm 30 psi in a race system isn't uncommon so engine temps can be much higher and the expansion difference lower at high temps thus closer tolerances can be used to produce more power.

Edited by MozzMann
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530807
Share on other sites

" Ben" Again people DON'T read the expansion I am referring to as different rates are between the various dissimilar metals used in modern engines, even alloys of the same metal. Hence the hotter the better to a point as a design feature because that is how the motor has been designed, taking into account the expansion when heated so that at Operation temperature the tolerances tighten up and then change little as the internal temperature changes within the engine.

Take the average Alloy or part alloy engine these days, there are Chrome-Molybdenum springs used extensively along with thin hardened shims they sit on, sintered boron bronze alloy valve guides, or hardened steel chrome plated valve buckets and their valve clearance shims, Titanium or harden alloy retainer's are now common to reduce reciprocating weight in the valve train, Stainless or more common cast camshafts, billet steel or cast or even Steel alloy crankshafts, forged steel con rods, chromium or hardened steel alloy sleeves in an Aluminium alloy block they ALL expand and contract differently and why as has been stated the hotter the better up to a point and the design parameter's of the engine take into account the differing expansion rates so that when the engine is at Optimal operating temperature the internal tolerances are within design specifications and will go a long way to explaining why some motors chatter or make a bit of noise when cold but hum smoothly when at temperature.


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530918
Share on other sites

Why us hotter better though?

The expansion rates of different metals is linear. They don't expand more from 0 to 40 than compared to 100 to 140.

They don't become similar at a certain range. The expansion rates that is.

I'm confused.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530925
Share on other sites

...when the engine is at Optimal operating temperature the internal tolerances are within design specifications...

yes, and optimal operating temperature has recommended minimum and maximum temperatures.

might as well remove the entire cooling system due to "the hotter the better" theory and see how that works out for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530944
Share on other sites

Ben & Pulsar

Again your not reading this as intended.

Different metal expand at different rates now while this is Linear as you correctly point the rate between different alloys IS different , Copper expands and contracts at a significantly different rate to Titanium for the same temperature change for instance and out the result tolerances between components change. What I am trying to convey apparently unsuccessfully is the differences in expansion rates per temperature are taked into account when an engine is designed so that whet at the correct temp all works as it should BUT if the internals of the engine are too cold it will be as a general rule much less efficient.
As I said expansion rates ARE different between different metal alloys and this is taken into account so that at the nominal operating temperature of the engine all the internal tolerances ie clearances are with the design specifications.
What this means is if your engine is continually operating below the optimal temperature then you will get excess wear between components because the space between them is in excess of the designed parameter's .

Again as a general rule the hotter the better up to a point because the energy release from the fuel has a higher calorific value (read energy release ) at a higher temperature.

It's a bit hard to understand with modern injection system as they allow for temperature changes in the Engine Block, Air inlet charge and other factors, When older engines used a choke on a Carburettor to richen the mixture at cold temps but you get rid of this as the motor warmed up and got more efficient running with a leaner mixture.
The modern injected engine is in essence no different in operation but used sophisticated electronics to manage everything from Ignition and cam timing to fuel delivery and drive train management so we are not aware of the inefficiencies at low temps .

This however still does not detract from the statement " Hotter the Better " was referring directly to racing ( I was referring to racing here ) as the internal efficiency of the engine is significantly better at higher Temps . 95-105 for instance than it is at 75-85 and the sole reason why there is a thermostat in your cooling system to get the engine up to and keep it within it's designed operating range. . Now you can see what I mean I hope.

Side note the reason why you NEVER remove the radiator cap from an over heated engine is the sudden drop in working pressure will instantly boil the coolant potentially severely scalding you.

Edited by MozzMann
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530959
Share on other sites

It is pointless trying to explain when people simply do not read, There are operating criteria for specific engines as I have stated all along,

the higher the engine can operate within those criteria the more efficient it will be and depending on the design.

NASCAR and often in a multicar train running generally full tilt and NOT in clean air so boom goes your argument there and why they try to keep temps down as this allows a much wider temp range before problems occur. but hey have a real juggling act between covering the radiator opening to get speed or opening it up to run cooler.

As fo F1 and Indy they have no fans and as a result must build a buffer into the car where the air flow does the cooling but they don't overheat while in the pit (minimal coolant too as they want to reduce weight.)

V8 Series, depending on the engine builder might have a design temp anywhere from 80 to 120 deg and again often not in clean air so it is desirable to keep initial temps low to again have a buffer temp wise while in racing in nose to tail areas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7531034
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...