Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There isnt a whole lot of info on rb30dets in my desired relms of use. Most rb30dets area drag monsters...

Hmm suppose it's the difference between a punchy quicker less laggy spool or a wait for a bit and get the the the holly f##k on it scary spool. Response vs shear power balance. Loads of rb's you see with bigger turbo's tend not to be able to get off the line or blow up boxes half shafts and diffs. I'd say with the bigger turbo you would need a mental clutch and longer ratio to get the power happening or it would just snap stuff and light up the tyres permanently. Which is also fun:-)
6 minutes ago, TiTAN said:

 


High flows have been tried on an rb30 years ago. It was a cheap build basically stock Na bottom end with the 25 head and it came on like a light switch but come 5000 it hit a wall, by 5500 it had dropped about 100kw from memory.

 

This is no gd... mine will be a forged bottem end so looking to lean on it some ?


Hmm suppose it's the difference between a punchy quicker less laggy spool or a wait for a bit and get the the the holly f##k on it scary spool. Response vs shear power balance. Loads of rb's you see with bigger turbo's tend not to be able to get off the line or blow up boxes half shafts and diffs. I'd say with the bigger turbo you would need a mental clutch and longer ratio to get the power happening or it would just snap stuff and light up the tyres permanently. Which is also fun:-)

Being a 3ltr it will have more torque anyhow so perhaps response is the way to go? Don't forget I'm only a sheet metal worker who has never blown up a Cleavo Windsor c4 top loader or 9".[emoji4]
Gtx3582r with an 50mm external gate is what i was also thinking. Either way i think external gates gonna be better


I had a pre gtx series 35r with 0.82 rear. If you tweaked the waste gate setup you could have 20psi at 3500. Traction was non existent below 100km/h, for Street use it was too laggy to be quick and too fast to be usable without potential jail time. You would start seeing positive boost (a few psi) at 2500 with a bit of load.

Guilt-toy had a similar setup and should be documented fairly well on sau.

This is my dyno sheet, 26 psi and the dip at 145 was spark breaking down, done on a 33c day.

IMG_1502280990.305269.jpg
13 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


Being a 3ltr it will have more torque anyhow so perhaps response is the way to go? Don't forget I'm only a sheet metal worker who has never blown up a Cleavo Windsor c4 top loader or 9".emoji4.png

I hear u can get cheap pipe? Gonna need some mikd steel and aluminium to make some pipe work. Proberly not till later in the year tho

  • Like 1
9 minutes ago, TiTAN said:

 


I had a pre gtx series 35r with 0.82 rear. If you tweaked the waste gate setup you could have 20psi at 3500. Traction was non existent below 100km/h, for Street use it was too laggy to be quick and too fast to be usable without potential jail time. You would start seeing positive boost (a few psi) at 2500 with a bit of load.

Guilt-toy had a similar setup and should be documented fairly well on sau.

This is my dyno sheet, 26 psi and the dip at 145 was spark breaking down, done on a 33c day.

IMG_1502280990.305269.jpg

 

Hell yeah, that looks right up my street. I wont be using it much on the street, mabe once a week at this stage. Il proberly get hooked at drive it all tje time lol

thats a run out at an airport, i am not even an amateur film maker obviously as its hard to even read any of the gauges. had spark breaking down at 160 then it clears up and keeps going, trapped at 242km/h at the 800m mark.

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, TiTAN said:

thats a run out at an airport, i am not even an amateur film maker obviously as its hard to even read any of the gauges. had spark breaking down at 160 then it clears up and keeps going, trapped at 242km/h at the 800m mark.

Sounds gd ?

16 minutes ago, TiTAN said:

That's mainly to give you an idea just how quickly 400kw puts on speed.

If it's going to be a track toy, you are going to need some serious brakes to deal with stopping it. Upgraded pads and rotors won't cut it.

350 all round. Alpha omega brembo upgrade. Dba discs and bendix pabs. With all my cars its always been suspension, tyres, brakes then power.


Posted some pics of the boot fit out. What do you think of it?

Looks good mate, should sound good too.

A lot of bass is lost through the back seat of our skylines due to the steel plate etc but will still be plenty of punch no doubt.

Is it all hooked up and running now?
  • Like 1



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...