Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

Anyone used any panel and paint shops for a complete glass out panel off respray they have had a good experience with? 

AFM Enterprises have been highly recommended to me, but they're VERY expensive.

  • Like 1
Yep that burns

So 24hours after fitting splits in my Ute, had a phone call and the ringtone blew one of the crossovers.

Always something to fix [emoji107]
Achy breaky heart at 250w.? No wonder it split [emoji174]
does this mean you dont want to come pull the dash out of the focus for me?
Saturday morning, about 1 hour after fitting 4 brand new tyres, the fkn heater core shat and spewed hot water all over my feet [emoji20] 8 years and almost 100 000km and NOW it finally breaks something....
Looks likes sneakers or boots all round for Sau safety. I thought ethylene glycol was good for bunions and fungus? 4 x brand new 19x245x35s on the xr8. It's a entire car key inside the tyre/rim. So 5 x new tyres. Ffs.DSC_0199_4(1)(1).JPG
54 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

Anyone used any panel and paint shops for a complete glass out panel off respray they have had a good experience with? 

Oh, and @z00keyuses In-Style Collision, they've done really good work with his car.

P2240079.jpg

  • Like 1
does this mean you dont want to come pull the dash out of the focus for me?
Saturday morning, about 1 hour after fitting 4 brand new tyres, the fkn heater core shat and spewed hot water all over my feet [emoji20] 8 years and almost 100 000km and NOW it finally breaks something....


Would cost a lifetime of reacharounds.

Was virtually a full day to do my Ute and had a few gremlins that appeared in the following days and required more work

So thanks but no thanks
  • Like 1


Would cost a lifetime of reacharounds.

Was virtually a full day to do my Ute and had a few gremlins that appeared in the following days and required more work

So thanks but no thanks
Have you got a fluke? Yep fluked it!
2 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

Anyone used any panel and paint shops for a complete glass out panel off respray they have had a good experience with? 

yep Rubin from instyle collision the guys there are awesome, i also have a mate who is back in Perth I have just got back in contact with who does really decent work and takes massive pride in his work I will post a link to his youtube channel so u can see his work.

1 hour ago, t_revz said:

 


Would cost a lifetime of reacharounds.

Was virtually a full day to do my Ute and had a few gremlins that appeared in the following days and required more work

So thanks but no thanks

 

lo I fkn here ya. Got it bypassed for now, but I have to pay someone to fix it, so if you are looking for a cashie for a weekend, let me know.

Things is, I am still not convinced its the heater. A couple of days after changing the coolant, the o-ring on the petcock shat on the radiator dump, and this makes me suspect the o-rings in the heater line even more.

 

fkn cars.

  • Like 1
lo I fkn here ya. Got it bypassed for now, but I have to pay someone to fix it, so if you are looking for a cashie for a weekend, let me know.
Things is, I am still not convinced its the heater. A couple of days after changing the coolant, the o-ring on the petcock shat on the radiator dump, and this makes me suspect the o-rings in the heater line even more.
 
fkn cars.

O-rings you say?

Which ones?
I thought it was a good electrical joke? Might be time to bow out gracefully?


My latest multi meter was run over by a Ute months back and is now starting to tell lies. Might order a newbie tomorrow
  • Like 1



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...