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Oh, I'm not actually getting much. The engine is perfectly fine and doesn't need any work at the moment. I'm getting some more cleaning stuff (running low on some things), a Headlight restoration kit, Microfibre towels!, some Mesh for the front skirt (I've been told it wont pass pits without it?), some valve caps for my tires (its missing them) and a lug nut...because im missing one and it annoys me. The plan tomorrow is to shell the interior (as best as I can) and clean it out.

The car has been sitting in a commercial garage in welshpool for 6 months collecting dust both inside and out, so before I can do any real work ,I need to clean it.

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I haven't got a time frame in mind. I'm in no rush because I have a daily (2014 Lancer ES) and my Motorbike ( <3 ) so the skyline is purely a hobby... but, the sooner the better, I guess. I don't think it'll take too much, but it's a first for me. I have a friend coming around possibly on thursday arvo to take a look at my cluster, because my Tachometer, fuel gage and boost gage don't work. So, if every thing goes smoothly it should be ready for the pits next week, maybe.

Thinking about making a thread to document the work.

Selling for a 2 door? ;)

SNAP!.

4 doors are where it's at man ;)

I know I need to take it over the pits, but there are obvious things that *need* to be done first. Once the obvious things are fixed, i'll take it over the pits and see what surprises me.

While you're on Z00key, Wanna tag along in the morning? (I'm leaving early, around 9ish)




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    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
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