Jump to content
SAU Community

High Intermittent Idle Rb25de


Hanzie
 Share

Recommended Posts

I got a rb25de r34 neo n/a, when I start the car it idles on 2000rpm, after about 5 minutes I can turn the car off and start it up again and it will idle like normal, when it's 2000 rpm, disconnecting the tps will lower it to normal aswell, what could cause this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

idle control is opening to full, your base idle is fine if it idles normally once idle control is disconnected. If idle control is still capable of working correctly sometimes then it's either sticking mechanically, so clean it, or it's reacting to a voltage received. Have you checked tps voltages? if not, do so and make sure they're in spec.

If you're not prepared to do that, then my other advice is it's probably your brake pads, or the boot lid closer...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I have checked the voltage output of the tps, both plugs (brown and grey) and the brown one I think is giving to much power to the signal, it reads as such,

Brown plug

Negative- 0.02

Signal- 2.62

Positive- 5.13

Grey plug

Negative- 0.03

Signal- 11.15

Positive- 0.03

Active signal wire on brown plug- 0.71

Wide open throttle- 4.20

Does this look right? I couldn't really find any specs other then active signal and WOT, which seem in spec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
    • Just did this job on my 32 with the boost doc kit. was quite simple to fit, hardest part was getting the rubber bungs back on the firewall. does anyone know how the heater will work now without the flap in the bend? Will I just have a heater on 24/7 now?
×
×
  • Create New...