Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20det - Modifying Stock Intake Manifold Thread

scrowetom
 Share

Recommended Posts

scrowetom Newbie

scrowetom

Posted
Posted

Hey guys & gals, this is my first post :cheers:

A little bit about myself before I get started. I'm 16, soon to be 17 and provisionally licensed. Looking at a R32 GTS-T as a first car. I've been surrounded by cars since I was born (Grandparents into rodding) so I do know how cars work, how engines work, suspension, brakes, upgrades etc.

However, I saw these images on a previous thread and they caught my attention. Due to the amount of controversy about RB20 intake manifolds and low torque due to shorter runners etc, these images really had me interested. If anyone could shed some light on the process of doing this, how hard, what is needed, if it's even worth it? That would be very very much appreciated.

YQID0V5.jpg

Pj8VN0B.jpg

scrowetom Newbie

scrowetom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cut up manifold.

Make parts to put throttle where you want it. Out of Aluminum.

Get weldded together.

Bolt onto engine.

Why. That's the question.

Mainly to reduce IC piping, cleaner engine bay, easier access to ignition, all whilst retaining the stock runners and plenum without suffering torque loss in the low end. Also, for that factory look. :P

Do you have a link to the thread for the first picture?

I'll swing you the link when I finish work man :)

  • 4 weeks later...
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

The one thing to consider with this is that you are taking an inlet manifold that is designed (by people who know a thing or 2 about airflow) to flow in the stock design and then pumping air in from a totally different direction. It might look tidier, and improve response by 0.0001 of a second because of there being a little bit less piping, but at what cost? You'll probably find that number 5 and 6 cylinders lean right out, while 1 and 2 run rich. And the best bit is that unless you hook up a wideband o2 sensor to each individual cylinder, you don't have any idea that it's happening until your engine pops.

And being around cars all your life doesn't mean you actually know how stuff works. What it means is that you may know a lot of information, but it doesn't mean that the information is correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      New Stegea Owner

      By PranK · Posted

      Welcome Thomas! Sounds like you've made some progress. Are you able to drive it and enjoy it a bit now ? 
    • The Bogan
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By The Bogan · Posted

      HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
×
×
  • Create New...