Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, reasonably new to the forum but have a question about my suspension. I purchased the GTR which already had Bilstien coilovers installed. The shock has a sticker with the following code F4-B46-2108-HO.

The car felt very firm even with standard wheels, now that I have put 18s and reduced the height a little (the shock has guiders so you adjust the height up and down), I think the ride seems too stiff.

Never owned a GTR before so not sure if the ride is just normal for a GTR or not (but me thinks it's not right).

Anyone got any advice on these coil overs or where I could get some good advice from? Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457292-suspension-question-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

I presume with these ones that if you lower it you are compressing the spring, correct?

If so, the more you compress the spring the firmer/shitter your ride will become.

If you dont like them, and they are not damper adjustable then maybe its time to invest in some quality suspension, usually stay away from jap coilovers as they love to be stiff.

As for stiffness of ride of a R33 GTR, my car was as stiff as a gokart on standard suspension.

Thanks, yes that's correct however it's is far from being low.

Happy to invest in coilovers and like you say will stay away from Japanese but given my existing ones aren't Japanese and not slammed to its lowest setting I guess I need to figure out if a change will actually help or am I better off maybe checking and changing springs with different spring rates..

The stiffness of the ride is not a function of those shock absorbers - it is down to one of two things:
1. You are running a stiff spring - which begs the question what springs do you have.

2. The car is low and you have run out of travel on the shock absorber or springs.

Before you do anything else stick your head under the car and have a look what springs there are. Take some pictures if you cant figure it out.

That model code is for a Bilstein B6, which is their mid-range (really nice) damper series.

The spring perches on those Bilsteins are not natively adjustable for height unless you're talking about dismantling them, relocating the circlip to a higher (or lower) groove, then putting them back together.

If there are adjustable height spring perches on them then they have been modified. One of the main guys who has been doing this over the years is a guy from here, SydneyKid. Do a search or two looking for posts from him and others about his gear.

These dampers may or may not have had decent adjustable perches put on them. The crudest sort just allows them to be screwed up and down, compressing the spring more or less. This alters the pre-load on the spring at the same time as adjusting the height, which can lead to nastiness, although it's not usually too big a problem as long as the height change is not too great.

If they do only have nasty-style height adjustment on them, you could conceivably get them further modified, by SydneyKid for example, to give proper adjustability for a LOT LESS than $2k.

Whether the above makes sense also depends on what springs are on there, as has already been mentioned. Photos, as mentioned, a good idea. Also get a pair of verniers onto them to measure the wire diameter, and try to count how many full coils they have. With that info an the colour (from the photos if nothing else) we might have a chance of working out whose springs they are and therefore what their specs may be. it's not possible to work out the specs completely without pulling the spring all the way out of the car.

If it turns out that the springs are stupidly stiff, then new ones are only going to set you back ~$500.

On the topic of spending $2k on new "suspension" or <$2k on modifying the existing Billies, I would far rather keep the Bilsteins that drive around on any coilovers that cost only ~$2k. You need to spend a LOT more than $2k on coilovers before the quality of the dampers in the coilovers starts to get anywhere near that of the Bilsteins.

Now to some specific advice. Wind the suspension height back to where it was. Drive it. Still too stiff? Welcome to the world of really low profile tyres. Note that it's not the suspensions fault (at that point).

  • Like 1

djr81 - a little dark for photos now but will try tomorrow. The springs are black in colour.

GTSboy - agree completely. My research to indicated that the damper is a good quality B6 damper and why I think it might be worth investigating spring rates. I adjusted the height by relocating the circlips as you mentioned. Even at its original position and on stock wheels the car (to me) felt very stiff and crashy which is why I think the spring rates maybe the issue.

I will take some photos of the springs tomorrow and post up. By the way how can I contact Sydneykid?

Black springs way well be Eibach which are usually pretty sensible. When you are under there try and find some writing on the spring itself. Usually a part number.

Also, if possible try and see how much clearance there is between the top of the shock absorber and the underside of the bump stop (You may not be able to as you will probably have dust boots on them).

Lastly measure from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch and let us know.

The spring perches if they are the usual type just jack the car up and down and dont adjust the spring compression.

My money is on too low a ride height.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...