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RE: the deposit

If I was the seller I would not find it unreasonable if someone requested their deposit back after discovering the car was not as I had advertised (ie mechanical fault, signs of crash repairs or dodgy modifications)

If I was the buyer in the above situation I would certainly argue my point that it should be refunded.

You should note that leaving a deposit is usually not necessary, and if the dealer wants something you give them a token 50 - 100 bucks maximum.

Expect to lose that if the deal falls through but always ask for it back in case the dealer momentarily loses his marbles.

I dont understand why you forked over so much cash as a deposit....

RE: the deposit

If I was the seller I would not find it unreasonable if someone requested their deposit back after discovering the car was not as I had advertised (ie mechanical fault, signs of crash repairs or dodgy modifications)

If I was the buyer in the above situation I would certainly argue my point that it should be refunded.

Well that would depend on whether the seller had claimed in his advertisement, or by spoken word that the engine was in perfect health, and it was later discovered that it wasn't. In *THAT* case, then the deposit should be refunded as the product was not as advertised.

BUT if the potential buyer simply changes his/her mind, cannot find the necessary funds, loses his licence, finds out something about the car he/she didn't like/whatever... Deposit should not be returned. That's the whole point of a deposit. The potential buyer should have ensured the car was to his/her prefect liking before putting a deposit down on the car.

As sewid said, the potential buyer did NOT have to leave a deposit. Doing so is a sign to the seller that the buyer is genuinely interested in buying the car, and wishes the seller to take the car off the market. The deposit is security for the seller in case the buyer pulls out and he loses another potential buyer that he has told that the car is no longer on the market.

That's the whole point of a deposit. If you expect your money back just because it fails a compression test, you're being unreasonable and don't understand the whole point of a deposit. The only time you should get your deposit back is if the car is not in the condition stated by the seller.

Oh, and zymotic... Anything over 150-ish is pretty decent.

The main thing is even compression across the cylinders... Don't be worried if it only manages 150 across the board and not 180 compression.

What you should be worried about is this:

180 175 180 110 170 180

or

160 90 155 165 160 85

Notice a large difference in compressions in a couple of those cylinders? That's what you should be looking for... That's a bad sign :thumbsup:

Oh, and zymotic... Anything over 150-ish is pretty decent.

eek, i thought the lower the number the better? :uhh:

when i had one done it came up to around 125 accross the board and they said this was better than usual

then again when i got it done elsewhere they were around 150 so cant really tell which is accurate but as least they're consistant.

re: the problem of the smoke... the people who are saying it could be steam, is this also possible as he has said it also happened at warm after idling for 10 mins, i thought white steam was fine at startup and warmup but any other time might not be so cool...

Jim

Thanks Guys,

Merli in particular for that excellent reply. Now I've got some good ammunition to make my decision following the comp test/inspection.

The dealer assured me word of mouth only that the engine was healthy and that the white smoke was due to car being washed.

I will attempt to get my deposit back if the mechanicals are poor as per the inspection, due to the fact that he stated clearly that the engine was good.

1 1/2 hrs in theory till the inspection I will keep u guys appraised of developments.

Results are in on compression test:

1 = 180

2 = 175

3 = 170

4 = 175

5 = 175

6 = 180

Oil is old needs changing.

Air filters need recharging.

1 tyre has a slo leak.

Needs new wiperblades.

Few cracks on spoiler.

No smoke was evident during idle or under load during road test and the car behaved normally.

Looks like I might be owning a blue whale instead. Provided the REVS check is clear.

Merli, could u check your private messages please :cheers:

I'm one confused chap.

Zy dont be so happy just because the engine is fine, you gotta worry about the chassis/running gear.

dont forget what N/A was saying, i totaly understand EXACTLY was he is sayin.

you gotta worry about the chassis/running gear.

The same can be said for many a car. Especially, GTR's coming in from Japan. At least here I gave it a good going over and then had a pro inspection and comp test. Thats a good start.

I don't know what else I'm supposed to do pull the entire car apart and check each piece?

I'm confused with the REVS check etc nothing else. Trying to iron out the numbers.

OMG it needs new wiper blades!!! Better clean out the slush fund :cheers:

Compression is very good, nice and even and fairly high too, w00t :) Sounds like at least the engine is in decent condition, if you're happy with the rest of the car then it looks like you may well have found a bargain, congratulations. Bastard.

Provided REVS works out & I buy the car (looks like it) I'll c if I can post some pics.

Its a bit on the bling, bling side with the bonnet vents and pins. I like the side skirts and front bar but might trade that bonnet in for a standard one. I kind of dig the clean sleeper look. I'm too old for bling bling rice (Reminds me to remove nismo sticker from boot).

Is it possible to powerdercoat silver mags to make them gunmetal. Is this expensive?

Firsts things first though - straighten that panel and get a good alarm. Oh and change the oil with some HQ synth, buy and use a K&N filter recharge kit, fix slo leak, and most importantly replace the wiper blades :cheers:

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