Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Im in the process of selling my current car and getting into a Stagea, the thing that i would like to know are what things should i be looking out for.

-What kms are the major services? If a major service is due what is entailed, as the VQ25DET have a timing chain.

-What are common faults? I have done a bit of research and found that they can develop an oil leak from the rear of the right bank and the turbo should have been replaced at the 100,000km mark.

-What is the life of the VQ25DET? There are a few cars available now and they have a large range of km/s on the clock ranging from 80,000km - 190,000km

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457356-looking-at-m35-stageas/
Share on other sites

The engine is good, as is the turbo. I have seen stock turbo's with 250,000 on them so don't believe the hype. If they haven't been serviced properly the turbo will fail early so check in the oil cap with a torch.

Obviously the lower K examples would be the pick, but you have no way of knowing the K's are legit. Check anything you buy on a hoist, as all the issues are underneath. Make sure you look at the following:

Cracks in the rear subframe (no big deal but you will need to get the subframe dropped and re-welded)

Rear diff bush leaking black gunk (around 4 hours to replace)

Rocker cover gasket on both sides (any M35 will need this by now if they haven't been done already)

The front compression bushes(again, very common but easy to change)

Front ball joint boots cracking

Radiator top tank Oring failure

Rear sway bar end links

Most issues are from degrading rubber after 15 odd years. Any car of this age will have similar problems. If they have all been done, including highflowing the turbo, it will save you 1000's. As for servicing, I would just drop all fluids when you get the car and replace them with a good quality synthetic.

Thanks Scotty I do respect your response. I am definitely going to hit you up for a dump pipe and a few other things when I get my Stagea.

I've been looking for an ar-x, for the lsd and the other little features like the seats and pop up screen. The height is somthing I am going to fix and maybe some underbody bracing, but I need to sell my current car as I have already begun ordering parts from Japan

LSD, electric seats and pop up TV are all options you could get on the base model so don't limit your search to the tan interior ARX. I prefer the kinky black leather to the grandpa tan personally. :P

  • Like 2

Don't forget tasteful beige and woodgrain RX!

As Scotty said, quality oil and regular changes, 180,000km on my stock turbo (probably jinxed myself).

I had to do rear sway bar links, front caster bushes (superpro) and a front driveshaft boot for my roadworthy.

Are you importing or buying locally? Do some hard cornering if test driving to check for front wheel bearing noise.

My front left did not get picked up during roadworthy (costs $250 each from Nissan).

Bose stereo is a DOG and can affect the ac controls and drain the battery.

Pop up TV satnav is no good in Aus, costs $250 for engrish conversion and needs aftermarket tuner.

Good hunting!

  • Like 1

I'm also in the market but I need big boot space, does anyone have the full dimensions of the car? I'm looking for distances:
from dash to boot
centre console to boot (seats flat)

seat back to boot

between wheel arches

between opening at the base (from the top of the corner)
widest width of the boot
height at opening

max height of the boot.

A Big ask, I know, but I've searched everywhere and there's not a lot of info about at all.

Also has anyone tried raising the ARX to get more clearance? I'm really after a soft-roader that can be driven well as a daily, get its feet wet in mild conditions, pack a decent load and tow on the very odd occasion. There's really only three cars that meet the criteria, the Territory (shoot me), Adventra (povo spec car) or the ARX, everything else is too small, too much of a road car or too much of a 4x4. I've got a 4x4 and it never gets used for its purpose, it sees a bit of sand a bit of gravel and a lot of bunnings.

Any help would be great!

Cheers,

nick

Edited by nickrussel

Took a quick measure, won't be entirely accurate but close enough to give you an idea.....

Dash to Boot Door (closed): 2840mm

centre console to boot (seats flat): 2000mm

seat (rear) back to boot: 1120mm

between wheel arches: 1040mm

between opening at the base (from the top of the corner): 730mm
widest width of the boot: 1380mm
height at opening: 760mm

max height of the boot: 770mm

  • Like 1

I'm also in the market but I need big boot space, does anyone have the full dimensions of the car? I'm looking for distances:

from dash to boot

centre console to boot (seats flat)

seat back to boot

between wheel arches

between opening at the base (from the top of the corner)

widest width of the boot

height at opening

max height of the boot.

A Big ask, I know, but I've searched everywhere and there's not a lot of info about at all.

Also has anyone tried raising the ARX to get more clearance? I'm really after a soft-roader that can be driven well as a daily, get its feet wet in mild conditions, pack a decent load and tow on the very odd occasion. There's really only three cars that meet the criteria, the Territory (shoot me), Adventra (povo spec car) or the ARX, everything else is too small, too much of a road car or too much of a 4x4. I've got a 4x4 and it never gets used for its purpose, it sees a bit of sand a bit of gravel and a lot of bunnings.

Any help would be great!

Cheers,

nick

Correct me if i am wrong but im not sure the M35 are rated to tow a lot, 1700kg braked from memory and there aren't many tow bars available to suit

This thread may interest you greatly: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402891-the-what-do-you-put-in-the-back-of-your-stagea-thread/

I've slept in the back of mine many times, on a 191cm x 91cm airbed, and not felt cramped.

If I move the front passenger seat forward and put the backrest vertical I can fit a 2100mm ladder in, with the boot closed.

I've managed to get a 2400 x 900 sheet of gyprock/plaster board in with the boot closed, and still been able to drive, albeit with my head crooked to one side.

I have a few rental properties so I often have to load it up with tools etc. I start with a huge pile of stuff wondering how I'm going to fit it all in and end up looking for more things to fill the gaps because there's so much space everything will fly around when I'm drifting the local gorge driving in a careful and considerate manner. I've yet to reach the point where I've run out of space.

  • Like 1

Being able to fit 2400x900/1200 would be a great asset as it seems to be where most newer cars fall down.

I've read there's a few people with 2000kg tow bars and as there is no tow rating on import it's legal limit is 2600kg. Given the way some are thrashed I have no doubt in the driveline and there are lesser cars capable of towing much more. The plan is to have extended mounting points as far forward as physically possible to distribute the load evenly. If my R50 can tow a fully loaded and fuelled V35 with a full load of luggage, an inch of the bump stops from Melbourne to Perth, an M35 can take the odd trip here and there. As for the usual stopping crap, decent electric brakes solve that, I can stop the R50 and 1500kg load, with trailer brakes alone.

2400x1200 wouldn't be so successful. You might be able to angle it and have it hanging out of the boot though.

If you're planning on towing a heavy load I'd suggest finding a very, very good towbar fitter who understands the importance of mounting points. Some M35s have cracked rear subframes from towing, and some "just because". It's easy enough to fix but probably not quick to remove for welding. I fitted a towbar when I bought mine but I've only pulled around 500kg for a total of maybe 1,000km. For heavier stuff I have a Commodore.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...