Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Clunking While Driving Straight


Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've got a couple little (I hope) problems with my 1995 R33 GTS25T

First of all I have a Nismo 1.5 way (according to previous owner) diff and it does shudder at low speed turns (carparks etc). I'm not really a fan of it as this is my daily driver but now I've gotten used to it, it doesn't really bother me. What is bothering me is as of about a week ago it (or something) has started to shudder/clunk while I'm driving in a straight line, on flat road going about 20-30 km's and stops about 40-50 km's. It never used to do this. As soon as the car was straight at low speeds it was smooth, only on turns it would shudder. If I'm cruising in 2nd gear at a steady speed I can hear and feel it shuddering/clunking (not as bad as the turning shuddering but it's still very noticable). The best example I can give is it sounds exactly the same as the diff shuddering at low speed turns but the shuddering is more slow (longer interval between each shudder/clunk). I think the diff oil is the culprit as I had it changed around the time the problem came about (not sure what they put in it, but the shop I took it too had a few GTR's out the front and I told them it had a Nismo 1.5 way in it, so I let them decide). I think the oil is either the problem or I just need to drive it a bit more to wear the oil in or whatever. I have done about ~200 km's since I got it back. Also the noise does go away once I press the clutch in.

The other problem I have is when I accelerate hard in any gear the car veers off to the left, I don't feel the steering wheel move but I have to steer right to compensate for it. Once I'm driving straight at a steady speed the steering wheel is straight and if I let go of the wheel, the car drives perfectly straight. Even when braking and letting the wheel go the car still stays straight, It's only when accelerating. I have checked the tyre pressures and they are fine.

Both of these problems arose at around the same time.

Anyway I will be taking it to a mechanic as soon as I have the time (it's my daily driver so I need it for work...) was just wondering what you guys think, I have had a good search and I have been a lurker of this site for quite a while and all I could find was stuff about the Nismo/KAAZ shuddering on turning but I couldn't find anything about the shuddering while driving straight.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 
    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
×
×
  • Create New...