Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries. I'm running a 25/30 neo as well so done it all before :)

Hey just a quicky - Did you bother adding material to either the head or block to get a better seal on the headgasket around water galleries?

I was overlaying the 2 and there is clearly a mismatch but still some landing that would probably make a seal. I was thinking about just using a little RTV around that area since the rubbery rings in the headgasket in that area won't engage on the head.

I can fairly easily add material to the head and dress it back but if you've got first hand experience of not doing it I could be talked out of the work.

Dave

I might be wrong but when i was comparing headgaskets ( RB30,25 and 26)there was one that seemed thin around a water gallery, i'm going RB26 headgasket, it looked the best fit everywhere.. :glare:

Your right, they are all thin around the front gallery :glare: , probably 2mm which isnt brilliant, someone should add all these fine details into the Guide.. just got the head back from the shop too :down:

http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf

I didnt see anything about welding beads on the gallery, should make a new guide thats more detailed... :yes: old man reckons weld more material so im gonna do that, i know that people get away with it ( i usually dont have that luck and have to do shit twice) but i dont like taking chances, 2mm contact area sounds bit dodgey.. what did you do here Ben? bolt it down or weld extra material??

Edited by AngryRB

So after reading this I thought bugger it ill just Weld it up. Decided while I had the tig out I'd just Weld up the oil feed as well since there is zero chance of it ever going back on an rb25 block. I attached some average pics for anyone who may be interested. The old water gallery is a typically contaminated surface so be sure to run plenty of AC balance.

post-41244-0-96359600-1443525867_thumb.jpg

post-41244-0-92991400-1443525940_thumb.jpg

post-41244-0-66241100-1443526009_thumb.jpg

Edited by dave1200
  • Like 1

Yeah I knocked one up a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to run this hose to the 3/4" BSP fitting in the block since I'm going N/A. Then Vent this tube also up to the catch can (in the bottom also acting like a drain for catch can). I'll plumb the 2 rocker covers to the catch can also then run the catch can breather to the inlet to keep it legal.

post-41244-0-82481500-1443571850_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Hey guys a bit of an update.

I lost a battle with the committee and had to sell my R31. I did however decide to keep building this motor. I found a healthy R31 Rb30 and as of tonight just got the Rb25 head torqued down. I set up all the timing gear and turned up some oil restrictors before cleaning the block and giving it a coat of paint. Here's a couple of pics for anyone who's interested. I've actually set up my gopro to take time lapse photos of the build for shits and giggles which I'll whack up one day if anybody would be interested. A keen eye will spot I have used a block without the machine face where the idler pulley sits. I've made up a 5mm plate to bridge it and machine that amount off the idler to suit. Not ideal but hey we're building a budget setup.

 

Has anybody else noticed when you use the concentric idler in the drive side of the timing gear that you timing marks don't line up perfectly? I have trialed a second tensioner in that place and can dial in the timing marks HOWEVER this makes me nervous in the case that it slips and throws the cam timing out. Thoughts?

 

20160819_222321.jpg

20160819_222342.jpg

20160825_212148.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...