Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am currently running a 48mm progate and since fitting the 6870 it will not hold boost at the track.

It held it on the dyno with slight creep after 6000rpm but at the track I'm hitting boost cut in first no matter how low I set the eboost.

Has anyone done the straight swap for a 50mm? Will it hold it ya reckon?

Or will I have to get a 60mm and do a cut and shut job on the exhaust manifold?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/
Share on other sites

Want it to hold 30psi for 700hp (on dyno we had it set at 28 and it crept late then ignition break down at 7200)but as stated at the track I had it set 20 points lower on the eboost and it still hit 32psi as soon as it could in first gear.

60ft in 1.34. Was like a boost line was off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562021
Share on other sites

Try a much stronger spring first - as near as possible to target boost is better. Set your boost cut a bit higher. Does it overboost in the other gears (apart from 1st)? If you can borrow a 50mm W/G that would be worth a try but if you have to buy one I would go straight to 60mm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562108
Share on other sites

If a boost line was off it may have hit over 60psi, mine did.

Not sure about the gate you have, but Turbosmart had to re-design their spring caps to hold that boost. They made a much taller cap with springs 3 times as long, so the stiffer springs wouldn't limit the travel of the gate.

If you hit the soft limit at the track, that would cause overboosting no matter what the controller was set to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562133
Share on other sites

Interesting Scotty that sounds promising for the 50.

Jet I would just get the 60 but it's a manifold off job, which I will do if I have to but I'm sure ive read plenty of people having success with the 50 so just chasing feedback. So easy to just bolt the 50 on and go racing. 60 is a major for me at the moment.

Thanks for the feedback.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562260
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Jax Tyres this Monday morning. Front lifted 15mm Back lifted 12mm Quote1, $175 per tyre + wheel alignment. Quote2, $660 inc wheel alignment. paid $298 for the lot.  
    • Finally have an update on this  Rack came in this week so I did a test fit. You do need the S chassis bushings since the rack is 5mm thinner than the R33 rack. The main issue I foresaw and ran into was one of the hardlines not lining up properly with there it's meant to on the rack. After some gentle coercing and bending very slightly, I managed to get it to fit without any kinks and keeping the hardline pretty much in all of the factory mounting positions. I did have to unbolt all of the soft mounts to move the line around so I could snake it out and bend it safely but it looks good to me for now. I'll update when the rack is fully bolted in and functioning.  
    • I hear this thread needs an update following its adventures last Wednesday!
    • What are you thinking makes a sequential shit to drive on the street? About the ONLY thing I can think of, is if you're wanting to be able to roll up to lights in third or second and pop it straight into neutral, or you want to come down two or three gears, say out of 5th and back to second, but they shift quick enough it doesn't really matter
    • I'm not a drag racing guy, but that was a good watch. Didn't Ibrahim's car have some cooch! But the big question is....WTF is with so many of them running without seatbelts!
×
×
  • Create New...