Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

trying to tidy up some wiring and unused components in my engine bay while its all apart.

got these 4 sensors going directly to the intake manifold on my r34 gtt.

can somebody please explain the function of each?

im assuming there is 1 for boost gauge, 1 for apexi pfc boost controller and 1 for ecu reference, what is the other one?

i am replacing the standard boost gauge so would like to remove the old sensor & plug.

also getting the apexi replaced with haltec platinum pro so will the haltec utilize the wiring ran for the pfc or can i remove/hide that?

post-90047-0-49235200-1437007000_thumb.jpg

post-90047-0-30916900-1437007202_thumb.jpg

post-90047-0-40403200-1437007248_thumb.jpg

post-90047-0-22777100-1437008487_thumb.jpg

The first one is the ECU's boost sensor, used for calling off the fun when the boost is too high.

The second one could be for just about anything, but not factory.

The third one is not a sensor, it appears to be a solenoid. It is probably the solenoid that regulates the application of vacuum to the charcoal canister.

The fourth one is like the second one - could be anything but wasn't put there by Mr Nissan.

The OEM dash MAP sensor is on the firewall near the brake booster.

the r34 uses map VE aswell for some calculations

It does, but the factory MAP sensor is plumbed in pre-TB (and hence pre-manifold). They seem to use some sort of pre-TB-MAP+TPS to calculate transient fuel requirements.

I moved my factory MAP sensor post-TB (now measuring manifold pressure) and the car totally died every time I changed the throttle position. After about 2 seconds it magically came back to normal. So I can say the stock ECU uses AFM for steady state airflow metering and pre-TB-MAP+TPS for transients.

Reason why I moved the MAP sensor was fitting an Adaptronic. Had to swap the stock ECU back in temporarily and it didn't like it! (Probably should have just unplugged the MAP sensor).

No idea why they fitted it pre-TB. You'd think post-TB would make more sense. Oh well.

The VE map is referenced off of things other than the boost sensor. The boost sensor is essentially just the fun police. It's never meant to see vacuum either (because of where it is) which is a good reason why poo poo happens when you move it behind the TB.

  • Like 1

Nothing to do with overboost I was nowhere near positive manifold pressure.

Has nothing to do with fun police or poo poo or any other vague suggestions like that. The sensor simply expects to see pre-TB MAP to do transient fuel estimates and the ECU doesn't cope when you show it a vacuum reading. Likewise if you just left it sensing atmospheric pressure it would still be a pile of shit on transient throttle as well (and leaving it atmospheric would defeat the fun police...)

The very same MAP sensor is now running my Adaptronic just dandy. Sensor doesn't care. Just the ECU is expecting pre-TB MAP.

  • Like 1

use the

It does, but the factory MAP sensor is plumbed in pre-TB (and hence pre-manifold). They seem to use some sort of pre-TB-MAP+TPS to calculate transient fuel requirements.

I moved my factory MAP sensor post-TB (now measuring manifold pressure) and the car totally died every time I changed the throttle position. After about 2 seconds it magically came back to normal. So I can say the stock ECU uses AFM for steady state airflow metering and pre-TB-MAP+TPS for transients.

Reason why I moved the MAP sensor was fitting an Adaptronic. Had to swap the stock ECU back in temporarily and it didn't like it! (Probably should have just unplugged the MAP sensor).

No idea why they fitted it pre-TB. You'd think post-TB would make more sense. Oh well.

correct its not the main load source only auxiliary.

Has nothing to do with fun police or poo poo or any other vague suggestions like that. The sensor simply expects to see pre-TB MAP to do transient fuel estimates and the ECU doesn't cope when you show it a vacuum reading.

Yes well that's the poo poo of which I spoke. Would have thought that was pretty obvious. Fun police not real vague either in a discussion that had already mentioned boost cuts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...