Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i have for the past few days emailed RHDjapan. rktuning green line, and a few more looking for the part numbers of the actuall replacement drive and driven plates for my r32 gtr transfer case.

With all these r32 gtrs out there im sure some are over 100k on the clock and needs a T case rebuild. There must be someone in sau that can provide all these parts ???

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458794-where-to-find-transfercase-parts/
Share on other sites

Are you looking for the Part Numbers or the Parts themselves??

Have you tried asking in the FAST thread as they may be able to get the part numbers from Nissan FAST?

Mate right now anything would help

Rhdjapan wants part numbers to help.

To buy the actual part would be best. But ill take what i could get.

Fast thread whats that.??

Hi mate, firstly please be aware I'm just looking this up, they are not part numbers I can personally confirm as correct.

31536-05U00 is the driven plate and

31532-05U00 is the clutch plate

They are section 333 in FAST

Any Nissan deal can order based on those part numbers (although they may choose not to). Websites like amayama.com will also deliver based on those genuine numbers

Thanks i like the whole transfer case for 2500 usd. At that price i might as well do the Nismo conversation kit r34 complete box 6 speed and twin copper mix clutch and all parts needed to convert it. That price is 7500 which isnt to bad.

Ok. Lets talk a bit about how the r33 and r34 engage the attessa faster by preloading the transfercase faster than the old r32. Simply put i dont like the reaction time an r32 takes to engage the 4wd. Well lets approach it without using a ETS PRO. im just trying to get a grasp of the idea nissan had. Looking at the mechanics of the systems it looks all the same other than chain size and programming. How do they preload the system?? Is it as simple as a different pressure sensor on the hydraulic pump. So that it seems to engage faster because the line holds a set amount pressure rather than starting from lets say zero.

This weekend im going to take the pump from my r32 gtr and the g sensor and install it into my gts4. Im going to launch it and judge the reaction time. Next im going to use and old pin that goes from the attessa activation piston on the rear of the box to the fork in the transfercase. Im thinking of making a custom one that can have the length increased in small increments. Im thinking this can manipulate the wear a bit.

Thanks for the time you guys take to read my somtimes crazy ideas. But i was born thus way:D

Ok. Lets talk a bit about how the r33 and r34 engage the attessa faster by preloading the transfercase faster than the old r32. Simply put i dont like the reaction time an r32 takes to engage the 4wd. Well lets approach it without using a ETS PRO. im just trying to get a grasp of the idea nissan had. Looking at the mechanics of the systems it looks all the same other than chain size and programming. How do they preload the system?? Is it as simple as a different pressure sensor on the hydraulic pump. So that it seems to engage faster because the line holds a set amount pressure rather than starting from lets say zero.

This weekend im going to take the pump from my r32 gtr and the g sensor and install it into my gts4. Im going to launch it and judge the reaction time. Next im going to use and old pin that goes from the attessa activation piston on the rear of the box to the fork in the transfercase. Im thinking of making a custom one that can have the length increased in small increments. Im thinking this can manipulate the wear a bit.

Thanks for the time you guys take to read my somtimes crazy ideas. But i was born thus way:D

The attessa on a Stagea or R33GTR or any awd except an R32 is very different from the R32. It maintains a constant preload on the transfer box which is why you can't just pull the awd fuse to go 2wd like you can with an R32. If you look through the pics in this link you will see the accumulator that sits above the pump to maintain pressure:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Stagea+attesa+pump&biw=1700&bih=1037&tbm=isch&imgil=2_-SFOGPQr7r2M%253A%253BzR5opxEd4KBVBM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.gtr.co.uk%25252Fforum%25252F158978-attesa-nitorgen-accumulator-cannister.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=2_-SFOGPQr7r2M%253A%252CzR5opxEd4KBVBM%252C_&dpr=0.95&usg=__n_jVUgCYpMU9gueGv_WpDJ3ITsY%3D&ved=0CCgQyjdqFQoTCMHZjan9kscCFQm2lAodF6gKJQ&ei=jYzCVYHfA4ns0gSX0KqoAg#imgrc=2_-SFOGPQr7r2M%3A&usg=__n_jVUgCYpMU9gueGv_WpDJ3ITsY%3D

Well i dont care for 2wd. Lol how does the r33 keep a preload on the attessa. So in sort your saying the nitrogen canister is what keeps the preload on the system. Or does the r32 has this canister as well. Can the newer system from a r33 (preload) be used on the older r32. ?? Just trying to get my head around the whole system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...